Nan Loop Motorcycle Travel Guide (Northern Thailand)

The Nan Loop is a spectacular multi-day motorcycle route through the mountains and valleys of northern Thailand, starting and ending in Chiang Mai. This relaxed loop (~650 km) winds through less-traveled provinces like Phrae, Nan, and Phayao, offering a mix of paved winding roads and optional dirt detours for adventurous riders.

Along the way you’ll discover charming historic towns, misty mountain panoramas, hidden caves, waterfalls, hill-tribe villages, ancient temples, and even an 800-year-old salt mine – all while experiencing some of Thailand’s best motorbiking roads. Below is a day-by-day itinerary with highlights, riding tips, and advice on bike selection to help you make the most of the Nan Loop.

Day 1: Chiang Mai – Lampang – Phrae (Historic Teakwood Town)

Distance: ~200 km (mostly paved highways and rural roads)
Highlights: Scenic highway ride, mountain temple, Ban Pin Railway Station, Maharat Rock Garden, Phrae old town.

Leaving Chiang Mai in the morning, head east on Kaew Nawarat Road and join Highway 11 south toward Lampang. Highway 11 is a smooth four-lane road (the main route to Bangkok) that quickly leads out of the city into the countryside. After about 27 km you’ll spot the giant statue of Kruba Srivichai on your right. Kruba Srivichai was a famous monk who built the road up Doi Suthep; his monument marks the gateway to Lamphun/Lampang province. A few kilometers later in Lampang’s Mae Tha district, keep an eye out for Wat Veluwanaram, a beautiful mountainside temple guarded by two lion statues and featuring a huge white Buddha visible from the highway. This peaceful temple makes a nice quick stop (the resident monks even care for friendly stray dogs on the grounds.

Continuing south, you’ll climb over a forested mountain pass into Phrae province. Descend and turn left onto Route 1023 – a pleasant two-lane country road with gentle curves and little traffic. This detour leads to the village of Ban Pin, home to a tiny railway station lovingly preserved from a bygone era. The quaint Ban Pin Station is built in a unique European-style timber frame, painted in pastel colors and almost looking like it was plucked from a Swiss alpine town. It’s a quiet spot (only a few trains per day) where you might see monks or locals waiting on the sole platform. Grab a cold drink or snack from the little shop in front of the station and enjoy the step back in time.

Rejoin Route 1023 and ride ~16 km to Maharat Rock Garden, a part of Doi Pha Klong National Park. A sign marks the entrance on the right. Here a short nature trail winds through a shady forest filled with bizarre rock formations, limestone boulders jutting in odd shapes amid the trees. There are also a couple of small caves (Kaeng Luang and Erawan Cave) to explore for those interested. Entry to the open rock garden area is free, though the national park may charge a fee (around 100 Baht for foreigners) if you venture further in. It’s a refreshing stop to stretch your legs – an almost otherworldly scene of rocks and roots.

From the rock garden, continue about 20 km east to reach Phrae, your destination for Day 1. Phrae is a small provincial city (population ~15,000) rich in heritage and known for its teak wood architecture. The town was once a center of the booming teak trade and still boasts some of Thailand’s finest 19th-century teak mansions. Riding into Phrae, you’ll notice the old city moated walls (the old town is encircled by an earthen wall that can be climbed for views). Take a late afternoon walk or ride around Phrae’s quiet old town: it’s like a living museum of Thai heritage, with tranquil temple compounds and well-preserved wooden houses decorated in ornate “gingerbread” carvings. One famous example is Vongburi House, a pink-and-white teak mansion from 1897 (now a museum) featuring beautiful fretwork and period furnishings. Also visit Wat Luang, the oldest temple in Phrae (founded in the 9th century), which has a very old Lanna-style stupa and a museum of ancient Buddha images. Another noteworthy temple is Wat Phra Non (with a 300-year-old reclining Buddha and a scripture library on stilts in a pond). As Phrae sees few tourists, the atmosphere is relaxed and “authentically Thai.”

Dinner & Overnight: Enjoy dinner at a local eatery – perhaps try Phrae’s specialty “moh hom” cuisine or just a hearty bowl of northern noodle curry. There are a few simple restaurants and night market stalls in town. Phrae is also known for indigo-dyed cotton shirts (moh hom shirts), so you might see workshops or shops selling these traditional clothes. For the night, find lodging with a view of local life – maybe a guesthouse in a restored teak house or a small resort on the outskirts overlooking rice fields. While Phrae’s accommodations are mostly modest, the cultural experience makes up for luxury.

Tip: Phrae Nakara Hotel and some homestays offer comfortable stays; or simply choose any hotel inside the old town to enjoy the historic ambiance.

Day 2: Phrae – Nan (Mountain Scenery & Temples)

Distance: ~130 km (easy half-day ride)
Highlights: Tham Pha Nang Khoi cave, Nan province scenery, Nan city temples and culture.

After breakfast in Phrae, you have time to see any sights you missed (morning is a great time to visit Phrae’s fresh market or take photos of teak mansions in the soft light). When ready, depart Phrae heading north on Highway 101. The road from Phrae to Nan is well-paved and relatively quiet, rolling through gentle hills and farmland. About 35 km from Phrae, a striking huge limestone cliff appears ahead – this means you’re nearing Tham Pha Nang Khoi (also spelled Pha Nang Coi or Khoi). Watch for the sign and turn off to Pha Nang Khoi Temple and Cave at the foot of the rock.

At Pha Nang Khoi, an impressive stone archway built from natural rock marks the temple entrance. Unlike the typical bright multi-colored Thai wat, this small temple is simple and serene – the chapel is plain white with minimal ornamentation, and it’s nestled under large shady trees with only the sounds of birds and rustling leaves. Behind the temple, a rocky stairway of about 100 steps leads you up into the limestone cave. Inside, it’s cool and dim; many stalactites hang from the ceiling and stalagmites rise from the floor, some illuminated by colored lights to enhance the mood. Deeper inside you’ll find the cave’s famous formation: a stalagmite said to resemble a woman holding a child – the “Nang Khoi” or “Waiting Lady.” According to local legend, a woman waited in this cave for her lover until she turned to stone. Near it is a heart-shaped stalactite, adding to the romantic lore. It’s an eerie and beautiful spot, rich with folklore. Outside the cave, a few small shops sell snacks and cold drinks – a nice refreshment stop before riding on.

Note: The cave is an easy, short exploration taking maybe 30 minutes. Bring a flashlight or use your phone light for areas away from the installed lighting. Watch your step on damp cave floors.

Back on Highway 101, continue north. Soon you’ll cross into Nan province, which was historically an independent kingdom centuries ago. The road here cuts through gently rolling hills cloaked in cornfields – after harvest season the dry corn stalks give the hills a golden-brown hue, dotted with the green of remaining trees. Enjoy the views as you cruise; Route 101 is in good condition and quite empty of traffic. About 50 km further, you arrive in Nan City, the small capital of Nan province.

Nan City is a friendly, laid-back town along the Nan River, with about 25,000 residents. It’s far off the typical tourist trail, which means you’ll find an authentic atmosphere and only a handful of other foreign travelers. After checking into your accommodation (many are located in or near the town center), spend the afternoon exploring Nan’s cultural sights. Start at Wat Phumin, Nan’s most famous temple. This 16th-century temple is unique – built in a cruciform shape with four entrances, it has a beautiful interior filled with well-preserved murals depicting scenes of local life and legends. Wat Phumin’s murals are considered some of the best in Thailand; the most iconic painting is of a man whispering to a woman (often dubbed “the Whisper of Love”), said to humorously portray one of the artists flirting with a local lady. The temple’s atmosphere is serene and artistic – take time to appreciate the detailed artwork and carved naga (serpent) railings at the entrance. Right across from Wat Phumin is the Nan National Museum, housed in a former palace. This museum offers insight into Nan’s history and the unique Tai Lue culture of the region, with displays of ancient textiles, weapons, and Buddha images. It’s worth an hour to understand the heritage of the places you’re riding through.

Another must-see is Wat Phra That Khao Noi, a temple on a hill just west of town. Ride or take a short drive up the steep road to the summit for a panoramic view of Nan. At the viewpoint stands an elegant golden Buddha statue facing the valley, as if blessing the city below. Come here around sunset: you’ll be rewarded with a stunning vista of Nan town and the Nan River winding through, all bathed in golden light – a perfect photo spot. The temple itself has a white chedi (stupa) and a few halls, but the highlight is the view (and it’s a great place to reflect on your journey so far).

In the evening, stroll through Nan’s night market (around the area of Wat Phumin or along the river bank, depending on the day). Sample northern Thai street foods – grilled meats, khao soi curry noodles, spicy papaya salad – or head to the “Food Market” opposite the Dhevaraj Hotel (known locally as the “State Property market”) which has many food stalls and stays open late. Nan also has a surprisingly good cafe scene; you might find hip coffee shops serving locally grown Nan coffee beans (Nan’s mountain villages grow quality coffee).

Overnight in Nan: There are several hotels and guesthouses in town. For atmosphere, consider a guesthouse by the river or a boutique inn in a traditional wooden house. If you prefer mountain scenery, an alternative is riding 1 hour north to stay in Pua (a small town in a valley with great views) – but that would add extra riding and is best if you plan an extra day. Otherwise, stay in Nan city and enjoy the convenience of walking to sights and eateries.

Nan’s lodging ranges from simple guesthouses to mid-range hotels; many have secure parking and even pools. Aim to relax, as Day 3 will be a full day of riding.

Day 3: Nan – Doi Phu Nang – Phayao (Mountain Adventure)

Distance: ~230 km (mountain roads, twisty but paved; allow all day with stops)
Highlights: Thrilling winding roads (Route 1091), hill-tribe villages, Kang Luang Dinosaur Park, Than Sawan Waterfall, Kwan Phayao lake.

Get ready for one of the most scenic riding days in Thailand! Day 3 takes you west from Nan across three mountain ranges toward Phayao. Route 1091 from Nan to Phayao is often praised by riders – it’s a two-lane road that meanders through endless hills with spectacular views at every turn. Head out of Nan on Route 1091, and soon you’ll be leaning into one graceful curve after another as the road gains elevation. The pavement is smooth and the traffic very light, so you can enjoy the ride at your own pace. Long stretches of 1091 run along ridgelines, offering panoramas on both sides of lush valleys and layered mountains. There are several informal viewpoints where you can pull over – often just widened shoulder areas or local shops – so take the opportunity to stop for photos or a sip of water while gazing at the green (or seasonally brown) patchwork of fields below.

About 30 km out of Nan, you might notice a small Hmong hill-tribe market on the left side of the road (near a turn-off). Local villagers sell forest products, fruits, and snacks here – a nice cultural encounter if it’s open (usually mornings). Interestingly, this junction is where a narrow rural road 4002 plunges off the highway; that road leads to remote Hmong villages down in the valley. Experienced riders seeking a dirt-road adventure could detour here – Route 4002 is steep and winding; parts may be concrete or dirt. It eventually loops back toward Nan (Route 4004) making a mountainous off-road loop. Only attempt this if you are confident in tight hairpins and possibly rough surface, as it’s truly off the tourist path. For most, sticking to 1091 is rewarding enough, but it’s good to know such detours exist for the adventurous.

Continuing on 1091, you cross the first mountain range and descend into a valley. After ~50 km from Nan, you’ll reach Ban Luang, the first sizable village on this road. Ban Luang has a few small roadside restaurants and shops – a good spot to refuel both your bike and body. Past Ban Luang, the road climbs again into the next range, which marks the border of Nan and Phayao provinces. As you crest this second range, you officially enter Phayao province. The descent brings you into Chiang Muan district, an area known for agriculture and forest. The village of Chiang Muan itself is quiet and unremarkable, but it hides an unexpected attraction: the Kang Luang Dinosaur Forest Park. About 4 km west of Chiang Muan (follow signs or GPS), this small park preserves a site where dinosaur fossils were discovered. There’s a little museum exhibiting fossilized bones and info about the prehistoric creatures found in the area. If you’re a dinosaur enthusiast or just want a quirky stop, it’s worth the short detour. If not, you can continue without stopping (the park is optional, as it adds a few kilometers of backtracking).

From Chiang Muan, head south on Route 1251. You are now riding through the Doi Phu Nang National Park area, a region of verdant forests and streams. After about 15 km on 1251, look for a side road on the right (west) – a small paved road that leads deeper into the national park. Take this detour (marked by signs for Than Sawan Waterfall or Doi Phu Nang). The narrow road winds 7 km into the jungle, ending at the Than Sawan Waterfall trailhead near the park headquarters. Park your motorcycle here (the park office has parking) and pay the nominal entry fee (around 20 Baht if you show a Thai license, otherwise official foreigner fee may be ~100 Baht – but often they are lenient). A friendly ranger station can point you to the path. A well-built staircase leads down through lush rainforest to the waterfall area. The walk is lovely – you’ll pass smaller cascades along a crystal-clear stream surrounded by ferns and giant bamboo.

At the bottom, Than Sawan Waterfall awaits: actually a pair of side-by-side waterfalls tumbling around 15 meters over rocks into turquoise pools. It’s a picture-perfect jungle waterfall, usually quiet with few visitors (mostly local families on weekends). If you’re up for a swim, one of the falls has a nice pool at its base – very refreshing! There’s even a “lifeguard” (usually a local dog or attendant) lazily watching the area. This spot is quite off the beaten path for foreigners, so enjoy the tranquility. After soaking in the beauty (and maybe dipping your toes in the cool water), hike back up the steps to the park office. There is an on-site café/food stall where you can grab a simple lunch or snack (and sometimes locally grown coffee).

Tip: Rest here, because the next leg will be a bit faster-paced as we head to Phayao city.

Ride back to Route 1251 the way you came and turn right (west) to continue toward Phayao town. Route 1251 winds through more hills (some covered in cornfields, though less extensively than Nan). After about 45 km, 1251 intersects Route 1021 – you’re now on the home stretch to Phayao. Turn left on 1021 and ride southwest about 20 km until you meet the main Highway 1 (Asia Highway) north of Phayao Lake. Turn right (north) on Highway 1 for a brief stretch, cross a small bridge, then make an immediate left onto the road leading into Phayao town along the lake. You’ve arrived at Kwan Phayao, the serene lake that defines this provincial capital.

Phayao is a small city (population ~20,000) with a large natural lake at its heart. The vibe here is peaceful and a bit romantic – the lakeside promenade offers beautiful sunsets and there are rowing boats and fishermen dotting the water. After a long day’s ride, relax by Kwan Phayao (the lake) as the sun dips behind the surrounding mountains, painting the sky orange and pink. The town itself is laid-back and not touristy, but has its charms. Along the waterfront, you’ll find a string of local restaurants – an ideal place to enjoy dinner with a view.

Try the local specialty: grilled fish from the lake, seasoned with herbs and salt. Phayao’s lake is known for its abundance of fish, so you can’t get fresher seafood in the mountains! For a bit of culture, you can visit Wat Si Khom Kham, a temple right by the lake that houses one of the largest Buddha statues in the region (a 16-meter gilded Buddha) as well as a garden displaying dramatic statues of Buddhist heaven and hell. Another interesting site (though a bit out of town) is Wat Analayo, on a hill across the lake, which features a mix of Buddhist and Hindu-inspired statues in a tranquil forest setting. These are optional if you have time/energy – many riders simply opt to enjoy the lakeside atmosphere.

Dinner & Overnight: Phayao’s lakeshore comes alive at night with food stalls and open-air restaurants. Enjoy a leisurely dinner of Thai food (don’t miss the fried tilapia or tom yum soup made with lake fish). Accommodation in Phayao is limited but there are a couple of hotels and guesthouses. For a memorable stay, choose a spot right by the lake so you can wake up to the misty lake view at dawn. The morning mist on Kwan Phayao is enchanting – often a soft fog hovers over the water with the silhouettes of fishermen in their boats. Many guesthouses have balconies or terraces facing the lake – perfect for an early coffee.

One recommended area is the south side of the lake near the park, where a few guesthouses offer lake views. Alternatively, a resort on a hillside outside town could provide a panorama of the lake and town below.

Day 4: Phayao – Chiang Mai (Forests, Waterfalls & Hot Springs)

Distance: ~300 km (paved mountain roads and highway)
Highlights: Route 120 mountain pass, Than Thong Waterfall, Mae Khachan hot springs, Doi Saket view.

Begin Day 4 by bidding farewell to lovely Phayao. Ride south along Highway 1 for about 9 km, then turn right onto Route 120 west . Route 120 is yet another fantastic motorbiking road – smooth tarmac, sweeping bends, and minimal traffic. It’s a shorter road (about 65 km total) but it packs in great scenery as it crosses the mountain range that separates Phayao and the Chiang Mai/Lampang area. As you climb, you might even catch a glimpse back east toward Phayao Lake from certain viewpoints behind you. Approximately 30 km along Route 120, watch for Than Thong Waterfall on the right (there should be signs). This is a pretty 12–15 meter waterfall in a lush jungle setting right next to the road. It’s easily accessible – a short path from the parking area leads to a viewing platform. During the rainy season it’s quite impressive, while in dry season it’s a gentle flow, but the surrounding tropical vegetation is always vivid green. There are a couple of small restaurants and snack stalls here as well. It’s a convenient place to take a break, grab a cold drink or an ice cream, and maybe chat with any Thai road-trippers who stopped (waterfalls are popular local picnic spots).

Continue west on Route 120, enjoying more of those long banked curves through forest and farmland. The road crests at a mountain ridge where you might notice some quirky dinosaur statues by the roadside (a nod to Phayao’s dinosaur finds!). Soon after, Route 120 descends and eventually ends at Route 118 (the Chiang Mai–Chiang Rai highway). Turn left (south) onto Highway 118 toward Chiang Mai. After the solitude of the back roads, 118 will feel busier, but traffic is still generally light to moderate (this is a major highway but through a sparsely populated area). In a few kilometers, you’ll come upon the Mae Khachan “Pong Nam Ron” Hot Springs, located in the Wiang Pa Pao district at the Chiang Rai–Chiang Mai provincial border. This roadside hot spring rest stop is a classic on this route: boiling geysers of mineral water spout steam into the air, and locals have set up stalls selling eggs in little baskets that you can purchase to boil in the hot spring pools! It’s a fun novelty if you haven’t tried it. There are also clean toilets, souvenir shops, and a few cafes/food stalls run by hill-tribe folks around the hot springs area . Many buses and cars stop here for a break, so you’ll find ample parking and maybe a crowd near the main geyser. You can also find a spot to soak your feet – there are shallow hot spring footbaths (be careful, some sections are extremely hot). Adjacent to the springs is an eye-catching structure: a replica Khmer-style temple facade that actually fronts a spa facility – it makes for an interesting photo op even if you don’t go in. Spend some time here relaxing – you’re only about 70 km from Chiang Mai now.

The last leg from Mae Khachan to Chiang Mai continues on Highway 118, which cuts through the Khun Chae National Park and Mae Takhrai National Park areas – meaning more green vistas. The road here has a few straight fast sections but also some curvy segments as it traverses hills. One section even goes through a scenic valley flanked by forest (part of Khun Chae NP, known for its dense jungle and occasional elephant crossings, though it’s rare to see wildlife from the road). As you progress, you’ll notice gradually increasing traffic and settlements. About 30 km from Chiang Mai, you pass by the northern end of Mae Takhrai National Park, where there’s a small ranger station and a pleasant picnic area by a stream, lined with shady trees. This could be a final rest stop if you want to enjoy a bit of nature before re-entering the city. There’s often a vendor selling fish food so you can feed the fish in the stream, and sometimes a coffee stand. From here, it’s roughly an hour’s ride back to Chiang Mai.

Soon you’ll pass Doi Saket, a hill on your left crowned with a gleaming White Temple – that’s Wat Doi Saket, a notable temple just outside Chiang Mai city. You might consider a quick detour up to the temple for one more panoramic view; the climb is short and the view of the surrounding plain is lovely. Otherwise, continue straight in. The road becomes Route 118 (Chiang Mai-Doi Saket Road) and leads you directly into Chiang Mai’s outskirts. Congratulations – you’ve completed the Nan Loop and arrived back in Chiang Mai!

Before diving into city traffic, reflect on the past four days of riding. The Nan Loop impresses with its fantastic roads, countless curves, and variety of sights. You’ve experienced northern Thailand beyond the typical tourist spots – from tranquil villages to wild mountain landscapes. Unlike the busy streets of Chiang Mai or the well-trodden Mae Hong Son Loop, the routes through Phrae, Nan, and Phayao were nearly empty, letting you savor each bend and view without interruption. It’s truly a motorbike journey you’ll remember for years. In Chiang Mai, celebrate your ride with a nice dinner (perhaps at the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar or a riverside restaurant) and share your stories with fellow travelers.

Cultural and Culinary Highlights

Beyond roads and scenery, Nan province shines in its culture and cuisine. As you ride through towns and villages, make time for these highlights that will connect you with local life (and fill your stomach deliciously):

Temples and Heritage

Nan’s temples are not just spiritual sites but guardians of history and art. We’ve mentioned Wat Phumin (Nan city’s jewel with gorgeous murals) and Wat Nong Bua (Tai Lue murals in Pua). Another must-visit near Nan city is Wat Phra That Chae Haeng – a gleaming gold stupa dating to 14th century, perched on a hill east of Nan. It’s especially beautiful in late afternoon light. In Pua, check out Wat Sri Mongkol (often called Wat Sop Mongkol). It features a Lanna-style viharn and a picturesque bamboo bridge over rice fields leading to a coffee hut – similar to Wat Phuket’s setup, and equally photogenic. Many of these temples have small local markets or weaving co-ops nearby, where you can see traditional crafts.

Artisan Villages

Nan is known for its tribal handicrafts, especially textiles. In Pua’s Ban Tai Lue community, you’ll find weaving workshops producing vibrant cloth on wooden looms. The Lamduan Textile Shop (next to Ban Tai Lue Café) is a great place to observe the craft and pick up handwoven scarves or sarongs. The Tai Lue people, who migrated from southern China over a century ago, maintain these weaving traditions and even the homestays often have weaving looms underneath the houses. Another cultural stop is Ban Nong Bua (near the temple), where mural painting techniques and wood carving are part of the village heritage. If timing allows, ask locals in Bo Kluea about any hill-tribe villages you could visit briefly – some Hmong and Mien communities are accessible and welcome respectful visitors, offering insight into their dress, embroidery, and way of life.

Café Culture – Mountain Brews with Views

Cafes in Nan are attractions in themselves, often set amid stunning scenery. Ban Tai Lue Café in Pua is a prime example: a charming spot overlooking rice paddies with a backdrop of mountains​. Enjoy a cup of locally grown coffee while sitting on a bamboo platform – the cafe is decorated with Tai Lue fabrics and even has traditional costumes you can borrow for fun photos​. In addition to the Sapan cafes mentioned (Yud Wela, Sapan Klang Na), keep an eye out for roadside espresso stands in unlikely places – Thailand has a knack for quality coffee in remote areas. One such gem is Sakad Coffee (Km.8) on the way to Doi Sakad, a tiny café with panoramic views that double as a homestay. As the Tourism Authority notes, visitors come here “to admire spectacular views” while getting their caffeine fix. These cafés are as photogenic as they are refreshing – think swings or wooden decks facing endless green, making your friends on social media instantly jealous.

Local Cuisine & Restaurants

Northern Thai cuisine in Nan has its own twists. Don’t leave without trying “Nam Ya Khao Soi”, a Nan variant of khao soi with rice noodles and curry, available at eateries in Nan town. For an authentic meal, head to Krua Huen Hom in Nan – a family-run restaurant known for dishes like gaeng om (herbal curry) and sai ua (northern sausage). In Pua, Ban Tai Lue Restaurant (next to the cafe) serves delicious khantoke dinner sets – an assortment of local dishes served on a pedestal tray, which might include grilled pork, spicy dips, and fried pumpkin. If you fancy something unique, the DaiDib DaiDee Farm near Pua is worth a visit. By day it’s a farm experience where you can ride a water buffalo through the fields and by night it turns into a lively pizzeria and bar with live music! (They only make 20 pizzas a day from a wood-fired oven, so reserve if you can.) It’s this blend of local tradition and quirky innovation that makes Nan special.

Along the loop, you’ll also find simple street food stalls and markets. In Bo Kluea’s tiny center, try grilled river fish wrapped in banana leaf or sticky rice with egg custard sold by the roadside. Fresh fruits like longan and mangosteen, depending on season, are abundant in local markets. And for a sweet pick-me-up, look for “khao lam” – sticky rice mixed with coconut milk and black beans, roasted in bamboo tubes; it’s a popular snack in Nan’s mountains.

Instagram-Worthy Spots

Your camera (or phone) will be constantly in hand on this trip. Some spots beg to be captured: the I ❤ Nan sign with mountains behind it on Route 1081 (there’s one at the “0 km” curve viewpoint, often called “Co Tham Pha” or the I Love U curve); the bamboo bridges at Wat Phuket and Wat Sri Mongkol; the misty panorama from Wat Khao Noi’s Buddha statue at sunrise; and of course, the classic shot of your motorcycle against the background of the “3 curves” road on Highway 1081. Cafes like Ban Tai Lue are designed for great photos – don’t be shy to swing on the giant swing or pose with the rice field scarecrows. Even the Bo Kluea salt wells, with their rustic shack and wisps of steam, make for dramatic photography that tells a story of tradition.

Choosing the Right Motorcycle for the Nan Loop

Road Conditions: The core Nan Loop route described is almost entirely paved. The highways (11, 101) and secondary roads (1023, 1091, 1251, 120, 118) are all sealed asphalt in good condition, with many sections recently improved. These roads feature everything from wide open straights to tight switchbacks, but no off-road riding is required for the main itinerary. Given the excellent pavement and thousands of curves, this loop is a dream for riders on street and sport-touring motorcycles. Bikes like a Honda CB500X, Kawasaki Versys, or similar mid-sized touring bikes are popular choices, offering a good balance of power and agility for the hills. Even a 150cc or 250cc scooter or standard bike can do the job (many travelers complete northern Thailand loops on Honda Click or PCX scooters), but be aware that smaller engines will struggle a bit on steep climbs and high-speed sections. If you do use a scooter or small bike, expect to go slow up steep grades and plan fuel stops carefully due to the smaller tank.

For a comfortable ride on paved roads, consider a bike in the 250–650cc range, with decent torque for climbing. The roads are nicely maintained and largely free of potholes, so a pure road bike (street tires, lower suspension) is fine. In fact, Nan province is famed for having some of the best roads for sport bikes in Thailand – the curvy tarmac is like a racetrack in the mountains on routes like 1148 and 1091. However, if you plan to incorporate any dirt section detours or unpaved shortcuts, you’ll want a bike that can handle it. In that case, an adventure or dual-sport motorcycle (like a CRF300L, Kawasaki KLX, or larger ADV bike) would be appropriate. For example, heading into hill-tribe villages or exploring rougher tracks (such as the steep Route 4002 loop or other local roads that are gravel), a bike with good suspension travel and dual-purpose tires will give you confidence. The Nan Loop can be as easy or as challenging as you make it – stick to the main roads and any bike will do, seek out remote valleys and you’ll want a dirt-capable machine.

Rental Tips: Chiang Mai has plenty of motorbike rental shops. Inspect your bike carefully before setting off – check brakes, tire tread, lights, and oil. If you’re renting a big bike, ensure the shop has a good reputation and provides helmets and possibly basic riding gear. Make sure to have a proper helmet (full-face or modular for best safety, as you’ll be at higher speeds on highways). Carry tools and a tire repair kit if possible, especially if going off the main route – punctures can happen, though roadside motorcycle repair stalls (“immigrant tire” shops) are found even in small villages and can fix punctures for about 30 baht. Plan to refuel frequently – while gas stations are present in all the towns (Chiang Mai, Lampang, Phrae, Nan, Phayao) and major highways, some mountain stretches have long gaps with no big stations. In rural areas, you can buy fuel from local shops selling petrol in whisky bottles – you’ll spot stands with glass bottles of yellow fuel in front of small stores. These homemade “gas stations” are more expensive per liter, but useful in a pinch. As a rule, top up in the morning and whenever you see a pump and your tank is below half. It’s very unlikely you’ll actually run dry – northern Thailand is fairly well populated – but it’s wise to keep the tank fed, especially if on a scooter with limited range.

On this loop, Phrae, Nan, and Phayao all have proper gas stations with attendants, and there are big stations on Highways 11 and 118. Between those, you may rely on small-town pumps or bottle fuel. For example, there’s a gas station in Chiang Muan near Day 3 lunch stop, and one in Ban Thung near the Route 120/118 junction.

For mostly asphalt touring, any decent 150cc+ bike will suffice, but a 250cc or above is recommended for two-up riding or carrying luggage on steep hills. If you’re an experienced rider seeking speed on twisty roads, something like a Honda CBR500 or even a bigger touring bike will make the ride exhilarating. Just keep in mind that Thai roads, while great, can have surprises (like an animal or a slow truck around a blind corner), so ultra-high speed is not advised even if the road tempts you.

Riding Tips and Safety in Thailand

Motorcycling in Thailand is an incredible way to see the country, but it comes with its own set of challenges and rules of the road. Here are some useful tips for a safe and enjoyable Nan Loop ride:

• Drive on the Left: In Thailand, traffic flows on the left side of the road. This may take adjustment if you’re from a right-hand traffic country. Always remind yourself at intersections and when turning – stay left. Most highways have signage and markings to help.
• Traffic Behavior: Thai driving follows a “fluid” system often compared to a school of fish rather than strict lane discipline. Vehicles (including motorbikes) will overtake from left or right, merge without much signal, and generally assume others will accommodate. Don’t expect drivers to strictly follow Western rules – for example, it’s common for a car to pass you and then slow down immediately to turn; or for a motorbike to pull onto the road in front of you at slower speed. Stay alert and anticipate unexpected moves. Use your horn politely (a light tap) to announce yourself when overtaking on mountain curves or if you think someone hasn’t seen you. Thai drivers don’t honk out of anger as much as out of courtesy to alert.
• Speed & Overtaking: The twisty roads beg for fun, but keep your speed within your sight distance. Many curves are blind with potential oncoming traffic. Local motorcyclists often ride slower 100cc bikes and may hug the shoulder – you can overtake them, but give plenty of space. On highways, faster vehicles will flash headlights to signal they are overtaking. Always check your mirrors; if you see faster bikes or cars, let them pass. On steep descents, engine brake (downshift) rather than overusing brakes to avoid fade – especially important if riding a scooter (use lower gear range to descend). Uphill, be prepared for slow trucks and buses grinding up – they’ll often stick to left, but sometimes need to swing wide.
• Road Hazards: In mountain areas, watch for animals on the road. You may encounter stray dogs wandering, chickens scurrying across, or even water buffalo and cows in rural stretches. Slow down near villages in case of animals or children playing. After rain, there might be patches of gravel or mud washed onto corners, and fallen leaves can be slippery. If riding in the early morning, be cautious of fog in valleys (which can greatly reduce visibility) and possibly slick dew on road surfaces. In the evening, watch out for insects (a clear visor helps) and avoid riding after dark in the mountains if possible – there’s minimal lighting and greater risk of stray cattle or wild animals.
• Fuel and Maintenance: As mentioned, fuel up when you can. Also, check your tire pressure each morning (many gas stations have free air). Mountain riding is more enjoyable with correct tire pressure and it ensures optimal traction. If you feel something off with the bike (brakes getting soft, chain too loose, etc.), take advantage of towns to find a mechanic. Every town in Thailand has a moto repair shop (look for signs with a gear or chain, or piles of tires outside). They are usually very affordable. For example, a puncture fix costs ~30–100 THB, and the local mechanics can be amazingly resourceful in getting you back on the road.
• Navigation: The route described is straightforward, but having offline maps or a GPS is helpful for city areas or any detours. Road signs in Thailand are in both Thai and English in most areas, especially for highways and tourist sites. For instance, signs to Nan, Phayao, etc., are in English on the main roads. Still, a phone mount or frequent map checks at stops will keep you confident in where you’re going. If you need directions, locals are friendly – a little phrase like “Pai Nan mai?” (Can I go to Nan this way?) with pointing, can confirm you’re on the right track.
• Police and Legal matters: Make sure you have the appropriate license (an International Driving Permit with motorcycle endorsement, or a Thai license). Police checkpoints occasionally appear on highways. Usually, touring riders are waved through. If you do get stopped, be polite, remove your helmet, and greet with a smile. They may ask for your license. Having the proper documents will usually result in no issues. If you were to get a ticket (for example, if not carrying a license), it’s typically a 500 THB fine paid at a police station. Helmets are legally required – always wear one (plus, it’s common sense on a motorcycle). Also, motorcycles are not allowed on expressways (toll highways), but none of those are on this Nan Loop route, so it’s not a concern here.
• Riding Gear & Health: Wear as much protective gear as you can, given the tropical heat. At minimum a helmet (preferably full-face), sturdy shoes, long pants, and a jacket (even a light mesh jacket) will greatly improve safety. Gloves are highly recommended for better grip and protection. Weather can change – a lightweight rain jacket or poncho is good to have on hand in wet season. Also, apply sunscreen on exposed skin: the sun is strong, and riders often get sunburnt on the backs of the hands, arms, and neck without realizing. Stay hydrated – carry water and take sips whenever you stop. Fatigue can sneak up after hours of riding curves, so take breaks at least every 1-2 hours to stretch.

By following these tips and using common sense, you’ll find that riding in Thailand is not as intimidating as it might first seem. In fact, northern Thailand is considered an excellent area for beginners to get a feel for motorbike touring – traffic is lighter than in big cities and drivers in rural areas are generally patient. The key is to ride defensively, stay aware, and enjoy the journey rather than race through it. On the Nan Loop, most of the time you’ll be on quiet back roads where you can relax and “get in the zone” of riding, surrounded by nature and local life.

Optional Detours and Dirt Routes for Experienced Riders

If you have extra time or crave a bit more adventure, the Nan Loop region offers additional side trips that can enhance your journey – some involving challenging roads or off-road sections. Here are a couple of noteworthy options:

• Bo Kluea and the Doi Phu Kha Loop (Nan Province): Instead of heading directly from Nan to Phayao on Day 3, experienced riders can add a day loop north of Nan that is often cited as a highlight. From Nan city, ride north on Route 1080 to Pua, then east on the steep Route 1256 into Doi Phu Kha National Park. This road climbs to 1,715 meters at its peak, with dizzying switchbacks and viewpoints above the clouds. You’ll descend to the remote village of Bo Kluea, famous for its ancient salt wells. Here, locals have been harvesting salt from mountain wells for over 800 years – a truly unique sight. Bo Kluea means “salt pond,” and you can visit the open-air huts where brine is drawn from deep wells and boiled over fires, crystallizing into salt as it has been done for centuries. This rock salt was so valuable historically that Nan’s kings used it as currency and tribute; it was sent to places as far as Sukhothai, Chiang Mai, and even China. It’s amazing to stand in this little village and imagine that salt was once “white gold” from these hills. After Bo Kluea, you can complete the loop by taking Route 1081, known as the “Road Above the Clouds”, southwest toward Santisuk and back to Nan. Route 1081 is a thrilling ride with continuous tight curves along high ridges – riders often rave that it’s one of the most exhilarating mountain roads in Thailand (some sections were unpaved years ago, but currently it is mostly or fully paved; check local info). Be prepared for a long day: Nan → Pua → Bo Kluea → Nan via Santisuk is roughly 200 km of very twisty roads, doable in a day if you start early. The effort is worth it for the scenery and the bragging rights of conquering the famous Bo Kluea loop. (If one had 5 days for the Nan Loop, an ideal plan is to spend an extra night in Nan or Pua and do this loop as a day trip.)
• Route 1148 (Phayao to Nan or vice versa): Our main itinerary used Route 1091/1251 via Chiang Muan to go between Nan and Phayao. Alternatively, if you skip Doi Phu Nang Park and head further north before turning west, you could ride the legendary Route 1148. This road connects Nan’s Thung Chang area to Chiang Kham in Phayao province and is often cited as one of the top 10 motorcycle roads in the world. It’s about 120 km of well-engineered asphalt sweeping over countless hills with perfectly cambered corners and near-zero traffic. You could incorporate it by riding north from Nan to Song Khwae, then taking 1148 west, and finally looping down to Phayao. It adds distance but if you’re a sport rider looking for the ultimate twisties, 1148 is pure joy. Along 1148, stop at viewpoints like the Cabbages & Condoms Restaurant viewpoint (yes, quirky name, but great vistas and lunch) near the Phayao end. This route would bring you into Phayao from the north side of the lake. Keep in mind you’d miss the dinosaur park and waterfall, but you could still catch Than Thong waterfall on Day 4. This is an optional routing for those prioritizing riding quality over sightseeing stops.
• Local Dirt Tracks: Throughout the Nan loop, you may notice small roads splitting off into the mountains – many of these lead to hill-tribe villages, national park ranger stations, or remote farms. If you’re on an off-road capable bike and have a GPS, you can explore some of these for fun. For example, in Phrae province, there’s a dirt road leading to Phae Muang Phi, a mini “Canyon” with eerie eroded sandstone pillars (almost like a tiny Bryce Canyon). In Nan, aside from Route 4002 mentioned earlier, there are paths in Wiang Sa district (west of Nan town) leading through the Mae Khaning valley, which offer a scenic loop on mostly paved, but partly gravel roads. Always inquire locally about conditions – during the dry season, these dirt roads are dusty but firm; in the rainy season, they can become very muddy and even washed out.

When attempting off-route excursions, ride with caution and ideally not alone. Unlike the main loop, on remote dirt roads you might not see another vehicle for a long time. Bring water, and let someone know your plan if possible. The reward can be discovering a quiet hilltop Buddha statue, an unseen waterfall, or just the adventure itself of navigating rural Thailand. But if it’s your first time riding here, you won’t feel left out by sticking to the main Nan Loop route – it has plenty to satisfy.

Conclusion

The Nan Loop is a remarkable journey that combines the freedom of motorcycle travel with the rich tapestry of northern Thailand’s culture and landscapes. Over the course of 4 days (or more, if you choose), you ride from the historic Lanna heartland of Chiang Mai into provinces that few tourists visit, experiencing everything from misty mountain sunrises to warm smiles in local markets. You’ll stand in centuries-old temples one moment and marvel at natural wonders the next. The loop’s mountain roads are a motorcyclist’s paradise – twisty yet smooth, scenic yet not overly technical – truly some of the best riding in Southeast Asia. And while you lean into curve after curve, you’re also carving lasting memories: the taste of lake fish in Phayao, the sight of Nan’s golden Buddha at sunset, the sound of a waterfall in a hidden forest, the feeling of cool wind as you crest a hill with a view of endless green ahead.

By the time you return to Chiang Mai, you’ll have a deeper appreciation for the “real” Thailand beyond the tourist hubs. Phrae and Nan’s gentle pace and hospitality may even entice you to return someday. As a self-guided rider, you got to set your own rhythm – stopping where curiosity beckoned, interacting with locals, and perhaps discovering a personal favorite spot not in any guidebook.

We hope this detailed guide helps you in planning and navigating the Nan Loop. Ride safely, soak in the journey, and enjoy every moment on the road. This is a loop that balances adventure and relaxation, nature and culture, twisty roads and tranquil evenings. In short, it’s what motorcycle touring is all about. Sawatdee khrap – happy travels!

Sources

1. Touring Thailand Blog – “Nan Loop” (itinerary and description of a 4-day motorbike tour, 2016) ( Nan Loop | Touring Thailand).
2. Touring Thailand Blog – “Nan Loop – Part 2” (Nan to Phayao route details, Doi Phu Nang waterfall, etc.) (Nan Loop Part 2 | Touring Thailand).
3. Pantip.com Forum Post (Thai) – Motorbike trip to Nan (rider accounts of Nan’s mountain roads, e.g. Bo Kluea to Santisuk “road in the sky”) (ทริปขี่มอเตอร์ไซด์ไปเที่ยว น่าน – Pantip).
4. GoPowerKick Travel Journal – “Bo Kluea Salt Wells” (history and description of Bo Kluea village and 800-year-old salt wells) (Bo Kluea Salt Wells – Go PowerKicK! Travel Journal).
5. Rungcharoen Travel (Thai travel site) – “Bo Kluea: Rock salt in the Mountain” (historical significance of Nan’s salt ponds, English text) (Bo Kluea “Rock salt in the Mountain” – รุ่งเจริญทราเวล Rungcharoen Travel).
6. German Motorcycle Tour site – “7 Tage Nan Loop (Tour C)” (overview of Nan Loop highlights: route 1148, Doi Phukha, Bo Klua, etc., in German) (7 Tage – Nan Loop (Tour C) – Thailand Motorrad Touren).
7. Bangkok Post – “Thailand’s tourist-free teak town Phrae…” (details on Phrae’s heritage architecture and temples) (Bangkok Post – Thailand’s tourist-free teak town Phrae).
8. The Wandering Blonde blog – “Motorbiking Northern Thailand for Beginners” (riding tips and experiences for new riders in Chiang Mai/Pai region) (Motorbiking Northern Thailand for Beginners).
9. Reddit – “10 Tips for riding motorbikes in Thailand” (user-generated safety tips on traffic behavior, rental advice, etc.) (10 tips for riding motorbikes in Thailand : r/ThailandTourism).
10. Motogirl Thailand – “Fuel Options in Thailand (Rural & Remote)” (information on gas stations, local fuel in bottles) (Fuel Options Thailand – Inc. Rural & Remote Locations – MOTOGIRL in THAILAND).
11. Wikitravel Phayao & Tourism Thailand Phayao (for general info on Phayao town, lake, and sights) ( Phayao | Touring Thailand ).
12. Author’s own travel experience and knowledge of Northern Thailand routes (contributing to practical tips and optional detour suggestions).