Mae Hong Son Loop Detailed Travel Guide
We are updating our guide right now, as you read it. Information may be inaccurate at this time. The update and final publication of the route will take place by February 17, 2026.
The Mae Hong Son Loop is a 600-kilometer circuit through the mountains of Northern Thailand, starting and ending in Chiang Mai. It passes through Pai, Mae Hong Son, and either Mae Sariang or Mae Chaem on the return, depending on which fork a rider takes south of Khun Yuam. The route contains 1,864 catalogued curves between Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son town alone. Nobody knows who counted them or how, but the number has become official enough to appear on a certificate that the Mae Hong Son Chamber of Commerce hands out to anyone who completes the ride, for 60 baht and a cup of locally grown coffee.
Most riders who come to Northern Thailand hear about this loop first. It is the famous one, the one that appears in every motorcycle travel blog about Southeast Asia, in every hostel common room in Chiang Mai where someone with sunburned arms is tracing a finger across a laminated map and planning tomorrow. The Mae Hong Son Loop has been the defining motorcycle ride of Northern Thailand for twenty years, and its reputation is not inflated. The mountains are real, the curves are relentless, and the province that gives the loop its name remains one of the most forested and least visited in the country, despite all the blog posts and YouTube videos and Instagram reels that have accumulated around it.
Pai, the halfway point on the northern leg, has been famous long enough to have its own mythology: the hippie town, the backpacker town, the town that used to be quiet before the tour buses came. All of that is partly true and partly outdated. Pai is crowded in December, half-empty in July, and at any time of year it sits in a valley so beautiful that its reputation, whatever version you have heard, undersells the setting. The mountains encircle the town like the walls of a bowl, the Pai River cuts through the middle, and at sunset the light turns the valley into something that makes people reach for their phones and then put them down again because the screen cannot hold what the eyes are seeing.
But the loop is not really about Pai. It is about the 500 kilometers that come after, when the tour buses turn around and the road gets emptier and the mountains close in. Mae Hong Son province is the most forested in Thailand, more than 80 percent tree cover, and the province capital sits in a valley so prone to morning mist that its Thai name translates loosely as “the city of three mists.” The temples there are Burmese, not Lanna, built by Shan migrants from across the Myanmar border. Their pointed roofs and gilded spires rise from the edge of a lake that reflects them at night, and the whole scene has the quality of a postcard that someone forgot to color-correct because the reality was already too vivid. South of Mae Hong Son, the road drops through forest and hot springs and a Japanese war museum in a town so small that most riders pass through without stopping. The final leg, whether through Mae Sariang or the shorter cut through Mae Chaem, delivers riders to the western slope of Doi Inthanon, the highest mountain in Thailand, where the temperature drops fifteen degrees, the waterfalls hit granite with enough force to throw mist across the parking lot, and the cloud forest at the summit contains orchids and ferns that exist nowhere else in the country.
The route described below covers the full loop in four days at a riding pace that allows proper stops without the kind of exhaustion that turns the final day into a survival exercise. Five days is better: it allows a full morning in Pai and enough time to reach Ban Rak Thai, the Chinese village on the Myanmar border, without rushing. Six days, with an extra night inside Doi Inthanon National Park, is the luxury version, and on a motorcycle through these mountains, luxury is measured not in thread count but in the number of curves you can take slowly enough to notice the forest canopy overhead, the smell of pine and wild ginger, the way the temperature changes with every hundred meters of elevation gain. The entire route is paved and rideable on any motorcycle of 125cc or above, though a few steep climbs near Ban Rak Thai and on the scenic Route 4009 will strain anything under 150cc, especially with two riders and luggage. If you prefer to travel by car, compare prices at EconomyBookings and RentalCars; check both, because prices for the same vehicle can differ between the two platforms. Book early in high season, when rental cars in Chiang Mai disappear fast.
Before you commit to the daily legs of the Mae Hong Son Loop, make sure you have a bike that fits both your experience and the terrain: tight corners, steep descents, long mountain sections. If you plan to rent a motorbike in Chiang Mai, sort the bike choice first, then build your itinerary around realistic riding time and daylight. Distances between fuel stations can reach 40-50 km on mountain stretches, particularly between Pai and Mae Hong Son and on Route 4009. Fill up in every town. Carry the right documents: a passport copy and a valid driving licence. An International Driving Permit is strongly recommended. Checkpoints are common in the north, and the wrong licence creates problems with insurance after an accident. Ride only in daylight. Many incidents on this route happen because riders rush the schedule or continue after dark on roads with no lighting and no margin for error.
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Distances Between Stops
Chiang Mai to Pai: 135 km. Pai to Mae Hong Son: 110 km. Mae Hong Son to Khun Yuam: 70 km. Khun Yuam to Mae Sariang: 95 km. Mae Sariang to Chiang Mai via Doi Inthanon: 200 km. The scenic shortcut from Khun Yuam to Mae Chaem via Route 4009 and 1263 saves about 60 km and skips Mae Sariang entirely, but adds some of the finest riding on the loop. Total distance on the main route: approximately 600 km. With detours to Ban Rak Thai, Mae Surin Waterfall, and Doi Inthanon summit, the total reaches 780-800 km.
Since the roads are winding throughout, average speeds on the curved sections run 30-40 km/h. This is not highway distance. A 100-km mountain stretch can take three hours with stops and still feel rushed.
How safe is Mae Hong Son loop
In terms of crime, this route is no different from any other place in Thailand. Traveling along Mae Hong Son Loop, you will constantly meet friendly people who will try to help you even if there is a language barrier. However, this journey can be dangerous in terms of road safety, as Thailand is the absolute leader among other countries in the world in the number of deaths on the roads involving motorcyclists.
Ride only in daylight. Fog and rain can arrive fast on higher sections. Wear a proper helmet and keep extra distance on downhill corners. Many incidents happen because riders rush the schedule.
Before you commit to the daily legs on Mae Hong Son loop, make sure you have a bike that fits your experience and the terrain (tight corners, steep descents, long mountain sections). If you plan to rent a motorbike in Chiang Mai, sort the bike choice first, then build your itinerary around realistic riding time and daylight.
Day 1: Chiang Mai to Pai
The 762 Curves and What Lies Between Them
Distance: approximately 135 km via Route 1095. Riding time: 5-7 hours with stops. Route: Highway 107 north to Mae Malai junction, Route 1095 west to Pai, with a detour to Route 3009 for the Erotic Garden. Highlights: Erotic Garden, Mok Fa Waterfall, Memorial Bridge, Pai Canyon, Land Split, Kho Ku So Bamboo Bridge, Coffee In Love, Sai Ngam Hot Springs, White Buddha sunset.
The Mae Hong Son Loop begins the way most great motorcycle journeys do: by leaving. Highway 107 north out of Chiang Mai is a four-lane corridor of 7-Eleven stops, car dealerships, and construction dust, the kind of road that exists to be endured rather than enjoyed. The goal is Mae Malai junction, roughly 35 km north, where Route 1095 branches west into the mountains. Fill up at the Shell station just past the junction. The next reliable fuel is in Pai, 100 km of curves away, and while small village pumps dot the route, they keep unpredictable hours.
Depart Chiang Mai before 8:00am. The ride to Pai takes 5-7 hours depending on stops, and arriving by early afternoon leaves time for Sai Ngam Hot Springs before sunset. Route 1095 has over 762 documented curves between Mae Malai and Pai. Most of the road is in good condition with fresh tarmac, but watch for gravel patches on blind corners, particularly during or just after the rainy season.
Erotic Garden
Before joining Route 1095, there is a detour worth the extra 30 minutes. From Highway 107 in the Mae Rim district, a turn onto Route 3009 leads to the Chiang Mai Erotic Garden. An alternative approach is to turn from Highway 107 onto Route 1096 toward Tiger Kingdom and follow signs from there. The garden sits on a two-rai property surrounded by rice paddies and backed by the ridgeline of Doi Suthep.
The garden is the creation of Katai Kamminga, a woman from Ubon Ratchathani married to an Australian archaeologist, who in 2014 decided to transform her farmhouse grounds into what she calls the first erotic garden in Southeast Asia. The result is part sculpture park, part botanical collection: landscaped hills shaped into the curves of hips and breasts, phallic sundials, cement penis fountains, and artworks by students from Chiang Mai University’s fine arts department. Katai herself leads every tour, speaking for 45 minutes with the confidence of someone who has spent a decade explaining erotica to confused tourists and disapproving police officers.
The place works because it connects to something real. The palad khik, a penis-shaped amulet associated with the Hindu deity Shiva, is one of the most common protective charms in Thai folk religion. Market vendors in Chiang Mai sell them by the basketful, taxi drivers hang them from rearview mirrors, and construction workers bury them under foundations. The garden’s giant palad khik standing in rows on the lawn are playful, but the tradition behind them is centuries old and entirely serious. Thailand’s relationship with fertility art has never carried the embarrassment that Western visitors sometimes project onto it.
Route 3009, Mae Rim district. Open 10:00-17:00, closed Monday. Entrance: 300 baht including a complimentary drink at the teahouse. Guided tour approximately 45 minutes. The garden is small enough that the tour is the entire experience.
Mok Fa Waterfall
Route 1095 announces its character within the first ten minutes. The road climbs immediately into forested mountains, the temperature drops by several degrees, and the curves begin. They do not stop. The first major stop is Mok Fa Waterfall, roughly 50 km from Chiang Mai (about 10 km after joining Route 1095), inside the northern boundary of Doi Suthep-Pui National Park.
The waterfall is a single curtain of water dropping 60 meters into a natural pool, framed by forest dense enough that the spray carries the green smell of wet leaves. A 300-meter walk from the parking lot leads to the base, where the mist soaks everything within 20 meters. Swimmers wade into the pool at the bottom; the water is cold enough to make grown men gasp. Behind the main falls, a side trail climbs to the Mok Fa Cave, home to a colony of bats and a vantage point that finally allows the full 60 meters to fit into a single photograph. The cave gets morning light through its entrance, throwing beams across the rock when conditions are right.
National park entrance: 200-300 baht for foreigners (prices change). Motorcycle parking 20 baht. Open 08:00-16:00. Budget 30-45 minutes. The path to the waterfall is short but can be slippery. Bring shoes that grip wet rock.
Memorial Bridge
After Mok Fa, Route 1095 continues its sequence of climbing, turning, and descending through mountain passes. The road surface improves and deteriorates in sections; fresh tarmac gives way to patches where the asphalt has crumbled, then returns to smooth riding. Army checkpoints appear occasionally. Slow down, remove sunglasses, and show your face. They wave motorcycles through without stopping unless something looks wrong.
About 9 km before Pai, the Memorial Bridge appears on the left: a narrow steel structure spanning the Pai River, painted in rust-red and designed for a single lane of traffic. The bridge was built during World War II by the Imperial Japanese Army as part of the supply route connecting Chiang Mai to the Burmese border. Japanese soldiers and conscripted local labor constructed the original road through these mountains, the same road that became Route 1095. The bridge survived the war and now carries foot traffic and the occasional motorbike that ignores the weight limit sign.
The historical connection runs deeper than this single bridge. On Day 3, the route passes through Khun Yuam, where the Thai-Japan Friendship Memorial Hall preserves uniforms, weapons, photographs, and personal effects of Japanese soldiers who retreated through Mae Hong Son province in 1945. The bridge is the first piece of that story, and knowing it changes the crossing from a photo stop into something worth a minute of thought about who built this road and why.
Signed from Route 1095, approximately 9 km south of Pai. Free entry. A small parking area and a few drink vendors on the east bank. Budget 10-15 minutes. The bridge photographs best in morning light when the river reflects the structure from below.
Pai Canyon (Kong Lan)
About a kilometer past the Memorial Bridge, still on Route 1095, a parking area on the left marks Pai Canyon, known locally as Kong Lan. The name translates to “monitor lizard trail” in the local dialect, which gives a more accurate picture of the place than “canyon” does. This is not a grand geological formation but a series of narrow ridges of orange-red clay, eroded over centuries by wind and rain into fins that drop 30 to 40 meters on either side. The walking paths along the ridge tops are sometimes less than a meter wide with no railings, no ropes, and no barriers of any kind.
The canyon attracts two kinds of visitors: those who walk the ridges with careful steps and a healthy respect for gravity, and those who pose for photographs on the edges with the confidence of people who believe falling is something that happens to others. Accidents occur here regularly. The clay becomes lethally slick when wet. Visiting during rain is not adventurous; it is plain stupid. In dry conditions, the ridges are manageable for anyone with reasonable balance and shoes that grip.
The views from the top reward the mild vertigo. The Pai valley spreads below in greens and browns, rice paddies and forest, with the town itself visible in the distance. Sunset from the canyon is the standard recommendation, but riders arriving from Chiang Mai will pass this point in the early afternoon, and the light at that hour is equally good without the crowds that gather at dusk. For sunset, consider returning from Pai in the evening, or choosing the White Buddha viewpoint instead.
Route 1095, approximately 8 km south of Pai town. Free entry. Open at all hours but avoid after dark and during rain. Budget 20-40 minutes. Wear sturdy shoes. The ridges are not suitable for small children, anyone unsteady on their feet, or anyone in flip-flops.
Land Split
After the canyon, the route includes a detour. About one kilometer further north on 1095, a smaller road branches off to the right (when riding from Chiang Mai). Signs point toward Pam Bok Waterfall and the Bamboo Bridge. This road leads to three attractions in sequence, of which two are worth stopping for and one is worth mentioning only so that riders know not to bother.
The first stop, about 7 km down this road, is the Pai Land Split, a crack in the earth that appeared in 2008 when underground thermal activity fractured a farmer’s field. The farmer, rather than panicking, built a small visitor attraction around it, complete with a viewing platform, a drink stand, and a modest entrance fee. The crack itself is roughly 50 meters long and several meters deep, with steam occasionally rising from the depths. It is one of those places that sounds underwhelming in description but works in person because of the strangeness of standing on the edge of a fissure in an otherwise ordinary rice paddy, watching steam rise from the ground while chickens peck in the grass nearby.
Pam Bok Waterfall
Further along the same road, Pam Bok Waterfall appears at about the 8 km mark. After seeing Mok Fa, and with Doi Inthanon’s waterfalls still ahead on Day 4, there is little reason to stop. The waterfall is small, the pool shallow, and the general consensus from visitors and bloggers is that it exists primarily for people staying in Pai for several days who have run out of more interesting options.
Kho Ku So Bamboo Bridge
The road’s real destination is Kho Ku So Bamboo Bridge, 11 km from the turnoff. This is a long bamboo footbridge stretching across rice paddies, rebuilt every year after the rainy season destroys it. The annual reconstruction is part of the local Buddhist tradition: villagers and monks rebuild the bridge together as a merit-making activity, and the structure that results each year is slightly different from the one before. In the early morning, monks in orange robes cross the bridge on their alms rounds, and the combination of the bamboo, the paddies, and the robes against the mist makes this one of the most photographed scenes in Pai.
Riders arriving in the afternoon will miss the monks but still get the bridge, the paddies, and the quiet. Those wanting the full experience can return early the next morning before departing for Mae Hong Son, though that competes with the sunrise at Yun Lai Viewpoint on the other side of town.
Coffee In Love
Back on Route 1095, about 3 km before Pai town, a yellow house decorated with hearts and a parking lot full of rental scooters marks Coffee In Love. The cafe owes its existence, and Pai owes much of its tourism economy, to two films shot three years apart.
In 2009, the Thai film “Pai in Love” used this cafe and the surrounding valley as locations, presenting Pai as a romantic escape from Bangkok. Before that film, the town was known primarily to backpackers who heard about it from other backpackers, and to Thai families from Chiang Mai who came for the cool weather. “Pai in Love” changed the audience. It was popular enough domestically to redirect streams of Thai couples north, filling guesthouses that had previously survived on dreadlocked Europeans and gap-year Australians.
Three years later, the Chinese comedy “Lost in Thailand” (2012) became the first Chinese film to cross the one billion yuan mark at the domestic box office, earning 1.26 billion yuan and becoming the highest-grossing Chinese film in history at that time. Scenes filmed at Coffee In Love and elsewhere in Pai played on screens across China, and the effect was immediate. Chinese tourist arrivals in Pai multiplied. Guesthouse signs appeared in Mandarin. Menus added Chinese translations. These two films, one Thai and one Chinese, did more for Pai’s economy than any government tourism campaign, and Coffee In Love became the physical monument to that transformation.
The coffee is adequate. The views of the valley are good. The real reason to stop is to understand how a farming town of a few thousand people became an international destination through the accidental power of cinema, and to notice that the heart-shaped decorations and selfie frames have the slightly worn look of props that have served millions of photographs and are not yet ready to retire.
Route 1095, approximately 3 km south of Pai. Open daily. Coffee 60-120 baht. Free to enter the grounds. Budget 15-20 minutes unless lingering over coffee.
Pai Town and Check-In
Pai itself is small enough to cross on a scooter in five minutes, but large enough in reputation to confuse first-time visitors expecting either the quiet backpacker hamlet of 2005 or the fully developed resort town that some online descriptions suggest. The reality is somewhere between. The main street has guesthouses, laundry shops, tattoo studios, Thai massage parlors, and enough restaurants to eat somewhere different for a week. The Walking Street night market operates every evening along the central road, selling the standard northern Thai mix of pad thai, khao soi, grilled meats, fruit shakes, and handicrafts. Accommodation runs from 300-baht fan rooms to 3,000-baht boutique resorts along the river.
Check in, drop bags, change out of riding gear. The afternoon is not over.
Sai Ngam Hot Springs
The hot springs sit about 15-17 km north of Pai. From town, ride north on Route 1095 toward Mae Hong Son for about 11 km, then watch for a blue sign pointing right toward Sai Ngam. The turnoff leads to a checkpoint for the Lum Nam Pai Wildlife Sanctuary, where the entrance fee is collected, and then 4 km of steep, winding road climbing through forest to the springs themselves.
Sai Ngam is not the closer or more famous Tha Pai Hot Springs, which sits 8 km south of town, charges 300 baht, and offers pools hot enough at 80°C to boil eggs in. Sai Ngam is something different: a natural warm river in a jungle valley, dammed to create bathing pools of crystal-clear water at roughly 34°C. The water has no sulfur smell, which surprises visitors accustomed to the rotten-egg atmosphere of most geothermal sites. The forest canopy closes overhead. Red dragonflies hover above the surface. The effect is closer to bathing in a jungle river than sitting in a commercial hot spring.
There are two windows for visiting. The first is the afternoon of arrival, after checking into Pai and before sunset. The advantage is practical: soaking in the afternoon leaves the evening for drying off, and the ride to Mae Hong Son the next day starts without damp clothes or wet riding gear. The second window is the morning of Day 2, on the way out of Pai toward Mae Hong Son. The springs sit 11 km north on Route 1095, directly on the route, which makes them a natural first stop rather than a detour. The tradeoff is time: an hour or two at the springs pushes the arrival in Mae Hong Son later into the afternoon, and the road ahead is long, mountainous, and not one to rush through in fading light. Riders who departed Chiang Mai early and arrived in Pai with energy to spare should take the afternoon option. Those who arrived exhausted, or who want to catch sunrise at Yun Lai Viewpoint before leaving, can fold the springs into the morning departure instead.
The road to the springs is steep enough that small scooters with two riders occasionally struggle on the climbs. A 125cc bike with a single rider handles it without issue. A heavier motorcycle has no problems at all.
Mo Paeng Waterfall
Riders who prefer a different kind of water, or who would rather stay closer to town than ride 15 km north and back, have an alternative. Mo Paeng Waterfall sits 8 km northwest of Pai center, signed from the main road. The waterfall itself is modest, but the attraction is a long, smooth rock face over which water flows at a gradient gentle enough to ride down on your back into a pool below. Locals and tourists launch themselves from the top with the enthusiasm of children on a water park slide, except the surface is natural stone and the consequences of a bad line include bruised tailbones and scraped shoulders.
The pool at the bottom is deep enough to absorb the landing. The water is cool rather than warm, which makes Mo Paeng a different experience from Sai Ngam but no less refreshing after a morning of curves and engine heat. A few vendors sell drinks and snacks at the entrance. The whole thing takes less than thirty minutes unless the sliding becomes addictive, which it does for some people. Mo Paeng scratches the same itch as the hot springs: time in water, surrounded by jungle, before the afternoon turns to other things.
8 km northwest of Pai center, signed. Entrance: 100 baht for foreigners, 50 baht for Thais (free before 2021; fee introduced by local landowners). Open 08:00-18:00. Budget 20-40 minutes. Bring swimwear or clothes that can get wet, as the slide soaks everything. The rock surface is smooth but not frictionless; a rash guard or long-sleeved shirt reduces scraping. The access road is paved.
Sunset: White Buddha or the Canyon
Back in Pai by late afternoon, two options compete for the last light of the day. Wat Phra That Mae Yen, commonly called the White Buddha, sits on a hill about 1 km east of town. A staircase of 353 steps climbs from the base to the temple grounds, where a large white seated Buddha faces west across the valley. The sunset from here is the better of the two options: the elevation is higher, the view wider, and the Buddha itself, white against an orange sky, creates a scene worth the climb. Note: a fire damaged parts of the temple in early 2025, and renovation scaffolding may still be present. The views remain regardless.
The alternative is to return to Pai Canyon, 8 km south on 1095. Riders who stopped at the canyon on their way in will have seen it in afternoon light; the sunset version adds long shadows across the clay ridges and a different quality of color across the valley. The canyon at sunset draws more crowds than the Buddha, which is counterintuitive given that the Buddha has a wider view and safer footing.
White Buddha (Wat Phra That Mae Yen): 1 km east of town center, signed. 353 steps to the top. Free entry. Budget 45-60 minutes including the climb and time at the top. Bring water. The steps are steep but manageable. Pai Canyon: 8 km south on Route 1095, same location visited earlier in the day. Free. Budget 30-40 minutes for a sunset visit.
Evening: Walking Street
Pai’s Walking Street operates every evening from roughly 17:00 until 22:00, occupying the central road through town. The market is smaller than Chiang Mai’s Sunday Walking Street but denser in proportion to the town’s size. Food stalls sell khao soi, pad thai, grilled pork skewers, mango sticky rice, rotis, and fruit shakes at prices that have crept up over the years but remain lower than Chiang Mai’s tourist areas. A full dinner with drinks rarely exceeds 200 baht.
The crowd is a mix of Thai domestic tourists, Chinese tour groups, European backpackers, and digital nomads who came for a week and stayed for a month. Live music drifts from several bars. The atmosphere is relaxed in the way that small towns with more bars than banks tend to be. For those too tired after the ride for a market walk, every guesthouse in town can point to a nearby restaurant, and most of them will be adequate.
Walking Street: daily 17:00-22:00 approximately, central Pai. No entrance fee. Khao soi 50-80 baht, fruit shakes 30-50 baht, grilled skewers 20-40 baht.
Day 2: Pai to Mae Hong Son (The Road Gets Emptier)
Distance: approximately 110 km via Route 1095 (direct). Riding time: 3-5 hours with stops. Route: Route 1095 north from Pai through Pang Mapha district to Mae Hong Son. Highlights: Yun Lai Viewpoint, Santichon Village, Doi Kiew Lom, Tham Lod Cave, Ban Ja Bo, Tham Pla Fish Cave, Doi Kong Mu sunset, lakeside temples at night.
The tour buses turn around in Pai. Almost everything north of here belongs to the motorcycles, the minivans carrying locals between towns, and the occasional pickup truck loaded with produce and chickens. Route 1095 continues from Pai toward Mae Hong Son for another 110 km, and the character of the road changes. The curves remain, over a thousand more of them, but the traffic thins, the villages shrink, and the forest closes in tighter on both sides. Fill up in Pai before leaving. The next reliable fuel is in Pang Mapha, roughly halfway, and after that in Mae Hong Son itself.
Depart Pai by 09:00-09:30 at the latest if planning to stop at Tham Lod Cave and still reach Mae Hong Son for sunset at Doi Kong Mu. Riders who want sunrise at Yun Lai need to wake before 06:00 and plan accordingly. The road from Pai to Mae Hong Son is in good condition but narrower than the Chiang Mai-Pai section, with fewer overtaking opportunities and more blind corners. Fuel up in Pai.
Yun Lai Viewpoint
Yun Lai sits 4 km west and uphill from Pai center, at the top of a narrow road that climbs through forest before opening onto a cleared hilltop with a parking area, a wooden terrace, and the kind of view that makes people reach for adjectives they do not normally use. On clear mornings the Pai basin fills with mist that moves slowly between the ridgelines, and the mountains beyond layer themselves in shades of blue that lighten toward the horizon until the farthest peaks are barely distinguishable from the sky. The effect lasts roughly from dawn until 07:30, when the sun burns the mist off and the valley returns to being a valley rather than something borrowed from a Chinese landscape painting.
A Chinese-operated cafe at the top sells fried mantou, steamed wheat buns deep-fried until golden and served with a dish of condensed milk for dipping, alongside pots of Chinese tea. The combination is simple enough to seem like an afterthought until the first bite: crisp outside, soft inside, the sweetened milk cutting through the oil. It has become the signature Yun Lai experience, the thing people mention when they describe the morning, and the setting does the rest. The best mornings are in December and January, when temperatures drop low enough to produce thick fog and the mist fills the valley completely, but any clear morning between November and March delivers a version worth the early alarm. During rainy season the viewpoint is a gamble: some mornings produce dramatic cloud formations, others produce nothing but wet shoes and grey disappointment.
The crowd at Yun Lai is overwhelmingly Chinese and Thai tourists, many of whom arrived in Pai the night before specifically for this sunrise. The terrace can feel crowded by 06:45. Arriving before 06:30 secures a spot at the railing and enough quiet to hear the roosters in the valley below before the selfie sticks rise.
4 km west of Pai center, signed. Follow the road uphill past Santichon Village. Entrance: 20 baht. Open from early morning. Arrive before 06:30 for the best light and the fewest people. The cafe serves coffee (40-60 baht) and simple Yunnan breakfast items. The road is paved but steep; a scooter handles it fine in dry conditions. Budget 30-45 minutes.
Santichon Village
Directly below Yun Lai, on the same road, sits Santichon, a settlement of Yunnan Chinese families who crossed into Thailand as civilian refugees in the decades following the Chinese Civil War. These were not the KMT soldiers who established Ban Rak Thai further north on the loop, the ones who fought a proxy war for the CIA and grew opium to fund it. The Santichon families were farmers and traders who drifted south through Laos and Myanmar and settled in the hills west of Pai, growing tea and vegetables and keeping to themselves until tourism found them.
The village has leaned into its heritage with a frankness that borders on theme park. Clay walls in the Yunnan style line the main path. A teahouse serves Yunnan oolong. Vendors sell steamed buns, Yunnan noodle soup, and sesame pancakes. A shooting gallery offers crossbows at balloons. Signs in Chinese outnumber signs in Thai. The commercial surface is thick enough that visitors expecting an untouched ethnic village will be disappointed, but the food is genuine, and a breakfast of Yunnan noodle soup with pork or a plate of steamed bao here costs less than the coffee at Yun Lai above. The noodle soup, in particular, is worth the stop: a clear pork broth with hand-pulled noodles, pickled mustard greens, and a chili paste that builds heat slowly and does not let go.
The broader story of Yunnan Chinese communities in northern Thailand runs through the entire Mae Hong Son Loop. Ban Rak Thai, which sits as a detour from Mae Hong Son, tells the military chapter. Santichon tells the civilian one. Both are real communities where people live, not museums, and both have made the pragmatic calculation that selling noodles and tea to tourists is more reliable than the alternatives available to ethnic minorities in the hills of northern Thailand.
Below Yun Lai Viewpoint, on the same road, signed from Pai center. Free to walk around. Noodle soup 40-60 baht, steamed buns 10-20 baht each, tea 30-50 baht. The crossbow shooting gallery charges 50 baht for five bolts. Budget 30-45 minutes, longer if eating breakfast here. Combine with Yun Lai by visiting the viewpoint first, then stopping in the village on the way down. After breakfast, return to Pai center, collect bags, check out, and ride north on Route 1095.
Doi Kiew Lom Viewpoint
About an hour north of Pai, at the border of Pang Mapha district, Route 1095 reaches its highest point and Doi Kiew Lom Viewpoint appears on the roadside at what is officially marked as Curve 681. The viewpoint is not a destination in itself so much as a natural pause in the riding. The road has been climbing steadily, the air has cooled, and suddenly the forest opens on both sides to reveal a panorama of layered mountain ridges stretching in every direction. On clear days the view extends far enough to make the scale of the mountains feel real in a way that riding through them does not. On overcast days the clouds sit at eye level and the viewpoint becomes something else entirely: standing inside a cloud, watching it move, feeling the moisture on exposed skin.
A handful of stalls sell roasted sweet potatoes, boiled eggs, tiger peanuts grown in the local hills, and coffee in paper cups. Lisu hill tribe children sometimes approach visitors for photos, a small fee expected. The toilets exist in theory and should be approached with low expectations. The whole stop takes ten minutes unless the view or the sweet potatoes demand more, and the descent on the other side drops toward Pang Mapha and the cave country below.
On Route 1095, approximately 40-50 km north of Pai, at the boundary of Pang Mapha district. Free entry. Stalls sell snacks and coffee. Open during daylight hours. Budget 10-15 minutes. The viewpoint has parking on both sides of the road; the left side (heading toward Mae Hong Son) generally offers the wider view.
Tham Lod Cave
From the Doi Kiew Lom descent, Route 1095 drops into Pang Mapha, the small town also known by its old name Sop Pong. At the town entrance, a signed right turn leads 9 km north to Tham Lod, one of the most impressive caves in Thailand and arguably the single best detour on the entire Mae Hong Son Loop. The cave is a 1,666-meter limestone system through which the Nam Lang River flows, and the only way through it is by bamboo raft, poled by a local Shan guide carrying a gas lantern, because the cave has no electric lighting and probably never will.
The cave divides into three chambers. The Column Cave comes first, its name earned by stalactites and stalagmites that have fused into pillars exceeding 20 meters in height. The Doll Cave follows, named for a prehistoric wall painting of a deer, an arrow, and a sun, estimated at 2,000 to 9,000 years old depending on which archaeologist you ask. The Coffin Cave is the deepest and the strangest: hollowed-out teak logs used as burial coffins by the ancient Lawa people, placed on raised wooden platforms inside the cave and left there for millennia. Chester Gorman, an American archaeologist, excavated Tham Lod in the 1960s and found stone tools, charred bones, and evidence of some of the earliest plant domestication in Southeast Asia, including legumes, gourds, and betel nuts. The cave is not just beautiful. It is one of the oldest continuously known human habitation sites in the region.
The bamboo raft ride through the cave is the centerpiece. The river is shallow enough in dry season that the raft barely floats, and the guide poles it forward with the quiet efficiency of someone who has done this several thousand times. The lantern throws shadows across the formations and the silence inside the cave is the specific silence of places where humans are guests and the rock is the host. Visitors who time their exit for late afternoon, around 17:00-18:00, can watch the daily spectacle of thousands of swifts and bats streaming out of the cave mouth against the fading sky, the swifts going in as the bats come out, neither species colliding despite crossing paths in the thousands.
The detour to Tham Lod takes 2-3 hours including the drive and the cave tour. It is the single stop on Day 2 most worth protecting in the schedule. Riders who skip everything else on this day should not skip this.
Signed from Route 1095 at Pang Mapha (Sop Pong), 9 km north on a paved road. Open 08:00-17:00. A local guide is mandatory and costs 150 baht per group (up to 3 people). The guide carries a gas lantern; there is no electric lighting inside. Bamboo raft: 400 baht per group. A full visit to all three caves with guide and raft runs roughly 600 baht for a group of three, or about 550-600 baht for a solo visitor. Prices have fluctuated in recent years, so expect some variation. Budget 1.5-2 hours for the cave tour plus 30 minutes for the drive each way. Cave Lodge, a guesthouse near the cave entrance, serves good food including pizza from homemade dough and Shan curries. Cash only at the cave.
Ban Ja Bo
From the Tham Lod turnoff, a short ride further along Route 1095 brings a left turn onto Route 1226, and 4 km up a ridgeline road sits Ban Ja Bo, a village of the Black Lahu hill tribe that has become famous in Thailand for one thing: a noodle shop where diners sit on the floor, dangle their legs over the edge of a wooden platform, and eat a bowl of pork noodle soup while staring into a valley so deep that the clouds drift below their feet.
The village itself is small. Two lines of houses along a mountain ridge, a couple of coffee shops, one iconic noodle restaurant, and the kind of quiet that comes from living at 900 meters above sea level with no cell signal and no reason to hurry. The noodle shop, formally called “Noodle Shop Ban Ja Bo,” keeps its menu deliberately simple: pork noodle soup with broth, or pork noodles without broth. Fried dumplings on the side. Coffee or tea to finish. The soup costs 30-40 baht. The view is free, and it is the view that draws the crowds. On weekends and holidays, Thai tourists queue for the floor seats at the edge. On weekday mornings, the place is nearly empty and the valley belongs to whoever arrived first.
The Black Lahu people who live here arrived from nearby Ban Huai Yao roughly fifty years ago, fleeing malaria in the lower valley for the windy ridgetop where mosquitoes could not follow. The village was named after its headman, Ja Bo. Like many hill tribe communities in northern Thailand, Ban Ja Bo once cultivated opium poppies. That chapter closed decades ago with the help of Thai-German development projects and royal agricultural initiatives that replaced the poppies with coffee and vegetables. The Dekdoi Coffee shop at the edge of the village serves the local product, and it is good enough to justify ordering a second cup.
Turn left from Route 1095 onto Route 1226, approximately 4 km to the village. The road is paved but steep. Noodle soup: 30-40 baht. Coffee at Dekdoi Coffee: 40-60 baht. No entrance fee to the village. Budget 30-60 minutes. The noodle shop opens around 07:00 and closes by 16:00. For riders on a tight schedule, Ban Ja Bo can be combined with Tham Lod in a single Pang Mapha stop, adding about an hour to the detour. Overnight homestays are available (100-300 baht) for those who want the sunrise over the sea of clouds, but this requires an extra night outside the standard loop itinerary.
Tham Mae Lana Cave
For those with time and appetite for serious caving, Tham Mae Lana sits in the same karst landscape near Pang Mapha. This is not a tourist cave. It is a 12-kilometer underground system with an active river, no lighting, no walkways, and no margin for error. Exploration requires a guide from the village of Mae Lana, 4 km of walking to the entrance, and between 4 and 8 hours underground depending on the route chosen. The cave was first explored by Australian expeditions in the 1980s, and researchers believe it has significant potential for further discovery. The stream inside is home to eyeless, colorless fish adapted to permanent darkness.
This is a stop for a specific kind of traveler: the kind who owns a headlamp and does not mind crawling. For everyone else, Tham Lod provides the cave experience without the risk of getting lost underground for the better part of a day.
4 km from Ban Mae Lana village, Pang Mapha district. Guide required (hire in the village). Tour options range from 500 baht for a short visit to 1,500 baht for the full 12-km, 8-hour expedition. Not suitable for casual visitors, children, or anyone uncomfortable in confined dark spaces. The road to the village is narrow and steep.
Pang Mapha Viewpoint
Back on Route 1095 heading south toward Mae Hong Son, another roadside viewpoint appears on the stretch past Pang Mapha town. This one sits lower than Doi Kiew Lom but offers a different angle: the valley spreads wide below, Route 1095 visible as a thin grey ribbon switchbacking down the opposite mountainside, and the forested ridges stacking southward toward Mae Hong Son in layers that fade from green to blue to grey. Coffee stalls, roasted sweet potatoes, grilled sausages, and a four-person swing that Thai tourists queue for. The view is worth the five minutes it takes to drink a coffee. The swing is worth whatever it is worth to each individual.
The viewpoint also sells hill tribe handicrafts from the Lisu and Lahu communities in the surrounding hills. The scarves and woven bags are reasonably priced and more likely to have been made locally than anything sold in Pai or Chiang Mai.
On Route 1095 between Pang Mapha town and Mae Hong Son, roadside. Free entry. Coffee and snacks at stalls. Budget 10-15 minutes. The viewpoint has parking on both sides of the road.
Tham Pla Fish Cave
After Pang Mapha, Route 1095 continues its descent and climb through forested mountains for another 50-odd km before approaching Mae Hong Son. About 17 km before town, a signed turnoff leads to Tham Pla, the Fish Cave, inside the Tham Pla-Namtok Pha Suea National Park. The name is literal: this is a water-filled limestone cave where thousands of soro brook carp congregate in a crystal-clear pool at the cave’s mouth, fed by a cold underground spring. The fish grow up to a meter long, and locals consider them sacred, protected by a Hindu rishi spirit whose statue stands near the entrance. Visitors buy bags of fruit and vegetables at the park gate and feed them to the carp, which approach with the confident hunger of creatures who have never been refused a meal.
A 450-meter path from the parking area crosses a suspension bridge over a stream and continues through shaded parkland to the cave. The walk is flat and easy. Monkeys inhabit the trees along the path and occasionally make their presence known to visitors carrying food. The cave itself is small and partially submerged; no one enters it. The attraction is the fish, the forest, and the twenty minutes of quiet walking through old-growth trees after hours of riding. The national park ticket also covers Pha Suea Waterfall, located further up the road toward the Myanmar border, but that waterfall belongs to a different day and a different detour.
Signed from Route 1095, approximately 17 km north of Mae Hong Son. Tham Pla-Namtok Pha Suea National Park entrance: 100 baht for foreigners, 20 baht for Thais. Open 08:00-18:00. Fish food available at the entrance (10-20 baht per bag). Budget 30-45 minutes including the walk to the cave and back. The park ticket is valid for Pha Suea Waterfall on the same day. Parking available.
Mae Hong Son Town
Mae Hong Son announces itself quietly. The road drops out of the mountains, the forest gives way to rice paddies, and a small town appears in a valley surrounded by peaks on all sides. The province capital has roughly 10,000 residents, a single-runway airport, and a pace of life that makes Pai feel like a metropolis. The Thai name translates loosely as “the city of three mists,” and the description is accurate at least two mornings out of three between November and February, when fog fills the valley so completely that the mountains disappear and the town floats in white silence.
The architecture here is Burmese, not Lanna. The temples have pointed, multi-tiered roofs instead of the sweeping curves of Chiang Mai’s wats. The population is roughly half Tai Yai (Shan), descended from migrants who crossed the border from Myanmar over generations, and their influence is visible in the food, the temples, the language spoken in the market, and the annual Poy Sang Long festival in March or April, when young boys are dressed as princes and paraded through town before ordination as novice monks. Mae Hong Son is closer culturally to the Shan State of Myanmar than to Bangkok, and it feels that way.
Check in, drop bags, and sort two things before dark: the certificate while the office is still open, then the hill before the sun drops.
Mae Hong Son Loop Certificate
For riders who care about such things, the Mae Hong Son Chamber of Commerce issues a certificate confirming completion of the 1,864 curves between Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son.
The certificate costs 60 baht, comes with a cup of locally grown coffee, and serves no practical purpose whatsoever except to prove to yourself and to anyone who asks that you rode every one of those curves and arrived on the other side. The office is a two-minute ride from Nong Chong Kham Lake, opposite the Mae Hong Son Tourism Business Association. Bring your motorcycle for a photo if you want one.
Mae Hong Son Chamber of Commerce: opposite Mae Hong Son Tourism Business Association, a few minutes from Nong Chong Kham Lake. 60 baht including coffee. Open during business hours (check locally, typically 08:30-16:30 on weekdays). The certificate is in Thai and English.
Sunset: Doi Kong Mu
Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu sits on the hill west of town at 1,300 meters, overlooking the entire valley. Two Shan-style chedis, erected in 1860 and 1872, stand at the summit, and the temple compound has the worn dignity of a place that has watched over the town for more than 160 years. The road to the top is paved, rideable in minutes, and the view at sunset justifies the brief detour from any evening plan.
From the temple terrace, Mae Hong Son spreads below in miniature: the lake, the twin temples, the market, the airport runway, the rice paddies fading into forest, and the mountains beyond turning purple and then black as the light goes. On clear evenings the sky performs the full spectrum, from gold to orange to the particular shade of pink that exists for about four minutes and then is gone. The temple itself is quiet at this hour. A few monks, a few locals, a few travelers who checked the sunset time before coming. The wind at the top carries the cool of the mountains, and after a day of riding through heat and curves and caves, the silence up here feels earned.
Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu: west of town center, signed. Rideable by motorcycle to the top. Free entry. Check sunset time at timeanddate.com for Mae Hong Son coordinates (19.2998, 97.9601). Arrive 20-30 minutes before sunset for the best light. Budget 30-45 minutes. The road down is steep and unlit; ride carefully after dark.
Wat Chong Klang and Wat Chong Kham
Back in town, the twin temples of Wat Chong Klang and Wat Chong Kham sit side by side on the southern shore of Nong Chong Kham Lake, and the reason to visit them at night rather than during the day is simple: when the temples are lit up after dark, their reflection on the lake surface creates the single most photographed scene in Mae Hong Son. The white and gold chedis, the green tiered roofs, the still water doubling everything, the mountains behind reduced to dark silhouettes. It is the image on every postcard, every tourism poster, every blog post about the Mae Hong Son Loop, and it looks exactly like that in person, which is rare for a place that has been photographed a million times.
The temples are worth more than their reflection. Wat Chong Kham is the older of the two, built in 1827 by Tai Yai artisans during the rule of Mae Hong Son’s first governor. A fire in 1970 destroyed much of the original wooden structure, and what stands today is largely reconstruction, though the metalwork fretwork that the Tai Yai are known for has survived. Wat Chong Klang, next door, was built between 1867 and 1871 as an offering to Burmese monks visiting for an abbot’s funeral. Inside its viharn, a wicker Buddha sits on the altar, and the walls display 200 glass paintings from Mandalay depicting the Jataka tales, the stories of the Buddha’s previous lives. A small museum behind the paintings holds 150-year-old wooden figurines from Myanmar, carved to illustrate the stages of Buddhist philosophy from suffering to enlightenment. The figurines are crude by museum standards and powerful by any other.
A small night market operates near the lake during high season, selling food and handicrafts. The lakeside restaurants serve northern Thai and Shan dishes. Dinner here, facing the lit temples across the water, is the natural end to Day 2.
Wat Chong Klang and Wat Chong Kham: southern shore of Nong Chong Kham Lake, central Mae Hong Son. Open daily during daylight hours (approximately 06:00-18:00) for interior visits. Temple grounds and lake area accessible at all hours. Free entry, donations appreciated. The night reflection is best photographed from the north shore of the lake, looking south. A small night market operates nearby during high season (November-February).
Outskirts of Mae Hong Son: Things To Do (+4 hours on the way)
Pha Suea Waterfall
The Pha Suea Waterfall is, by far, Thailand’s most beautiful. It flows from the Burmese river of Mae Sa-nga. The fall has six levels and flows year-round. It is about 26 km from Mae Hong Son and is one of Thailand’s most visited falls.
Ban Rak Thai (Mae Aw)
Ban Rak Thai is a small Chinese mountain village near the town of Mae Hong Son. The village was built by soldiers of the 93rd Division of the Kuomintang Army who fought against the army of the Communist Party of China during the Mao Revolution and were forced to retreat first to Burma and then to Thailand.
The village is famous for its lake, tea plantations, authentic Chinese food, souvenirs, and conservative Yunnan culture. The mountain village is nestled around a lake, around which it is nice to stroll.
Pang Tong Royal Forest Park Project 2 (Pang Oung)
Pang Tong Under Royal Forest Park (also known as Pang Oung) is a large park with tall trees. The trees are planted in parallel lines which makes it very appealing to the eye. The plantation park is also adjacent to a pristine lake. If you are really lucky, you will see the occasional swan among the ducks on the water. The Pang Ung is a very popular camping spot at the Mae Hong Son loop during the winters and is a very well endorsed place for other adventure activities.
Nai Soi Long Neck Karen Village
Nai Soi is a karen hill tribe village that is about 20km from Mae Hong Son town. The village is famous because it is close to a Thailand refugee camp. The village is predominantly occupied by the Long Neck Hill Tribe and the occasionally accepted refugee. Nai Soi, over the years, has become a very popular tourist destination because it is a safe environment in which tourists can interact with tribal people to get a deeper understanding of the life they live.
Heading to Mae Sariang, Day 3
The Mae Hong Son to Mae Sariang route is approximately 162 kilometers. A comfortable journey along this route takes approximately 3 hours.
Direct route – 162 km
Scenic route – 190 km
Things To Do In Mae Sariang
Pha Bong Hot Spring
Pha Bong Hot Springs is another place to relax in the Mae Hong Son province. It has one large hot spring with several smaller pools around it. The mountains rise in the background creating a place of tranquility. There also has a number of mineral spa baths in the area that are accessible for 50 baht for a single room or 400 baht for a big room.
Pha Bong View Point
This is another stop-on-the-way kind of viewpoint because it has a couple of good coffee and tea stalls and a number of places to pick up snacks. The viewpoint falls in the middle of the road from Mae Hong Son to Mae Sariang.
Mae Surin Waterfall
The Mae Surin Waterfall is one of the main reasons tourists flock to Namtok Mae Surin National Park. It is Thailand’s one of the most picturesque waterfall, with multiple levels of rock and beautifully cascading, clear water. The serenity and sheer size of the Mae Surin are unmatched and bring in tourists from across the globe.
Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
The Thai-Japan Friendship Museum is in the little sleepy town of Khun Yuam. The museum is home to many World War II memoirs. During the second world war, Khun Yuam was one of Japan’s most important Army bases. Since the museum contains exhibits that have nothing to do with the war, it is generally addressed as Thai-Japan Friendship Museum or the Khun Yuam Museum. The museum opened in 1995.
After visiting the museum, you can choose where to go next. Mae Sariang is for those who want to ride longer. Mae Chaem – for those who want to return home quickly. The routes differ only in the length of the road. The sights on both routes are the same.
Doi Mae U-Kho
Dok Bua Thong (which could be classified as a wild sunflower) blooms in November, turning the entire hill country of Doi Mae U-Kho bright yellow. This attracts many local tourists to Khun Yuam area every year during these 2 weeks of bloom. Those who wish can use the campsites that are arranged at this time.
If you want to wander for pleasure for another two or three days along this route, then be sure to check out our guide to Mae Sariang and Salween National Park, where we have published reviews of 22 local attractions for travelers. Because it’s time to go there.
Get Back to Chiang Mai, Day 4
Mae Sariang to Chiang Mai
The Mae Sariang to Chiang Mai route is about 196 kilometers long. The road leads through picturesque hills and mind-blowing natural vistas, and by the end of the route gradually turns into a bustling suburb and then into the city of Chiang Mai.
Direct route – 196 km
Scenic route – 287 km
Wat Phra That Si Chom Thong
The Wat Phra That Si Chom Thong temple is a very important temple in Northern Thailand. The temple is located atop a hill and has an aerial view of the little villages below. The temple is a Buddhist relic because it is believed that Buddha himself visited the hill once where the temple now is. The temple also has a meditation center.
Mae Ya Waterfall
On your way to this waterfall, you will pass Op Luang National Park. If you decide to visit this place, add a couple of hours to your trip.
Mae Ya Waterfall is one of Thailand’s most beautiful. On the road between Mae Sariang and Chiang Mai, the fall is about 260m high and has many pools around it that locals swim and cool off in during the summer months.
Mae Ya and Wachirathan Waterfalls + Great Holy Relics Pagodas + Highest Spot in Thailand are in the same national park, but they have different entrances. One ticket can be used to enter through both.
Wachirathan Waterfall
The Wachirathan Waterfall is also in the foothills of the Doi Inthanon mountain in the Doi Inthanon National Park and is the second on the way up to the summit. This fall is by far much stronger than the Mae Klang, likely because it is higher. It is a lovely place to rest and relax before continuing on to the next point of interest.
The English translation of Wachirathan is “Diamond Creek” as the water flows down over granite as it reaches the ground, and millions of falling splashes become like airy fragments of bright and iridescent diamonds. The waterfall itself is quite segmented, but the cumulative height of the is approximately 80 meters.
On most days in the non-rainy seasons, there is one very forceful stream plummeting to the ground on the leftmost part of the fall and it gets stringier as you move to the right. But even without rain, there is enough water falling down the slope to create a powerful mist spray and make rainbows by reflecting the sun.
The Wachirathan is one of the more crowded ones on the way up to the summit. This waterfall is truly the best in Northern Thailand. The waterfall is accessible by road and has ample parking at the entrance.
Great Holy Relics Pagodas
The Great Holy Relics Pagodas is a temple that is built on the slopes of Doi Inthanon National Park. Because of its height and its location on the hills, the Great Holy Relics Pagodas is a nice stop to watch both the sunrise and the sunset from.
Doi Inthanon, Highest Mountain in Thailand
The Doi Inthanon Peak is the highest mountain peak in Thailand and is a very popular destination for both domestic and international tourists. The top of the mountain is about 2,565 meters or 8,415 feet. Doi Luang and Doi Ang Ka are two other names that the locals sometimes call this peak which essentially translates to the same meaning, “the Big Mountain”.
Doi Inthanon was renamed in honor of the last king of the Chiang Mai Province who was deeply concerned and involved in the conservation of forest lands and the mountains. In fact, he wanted his ashes to be interred on the summit. Apart from being a symbol of historical importance, this mountain is also home to the Thai Air Force’s weather radar and the Thai National Observatory.
The summit can be reached by road and, for the more adventurous amongst us, by hiking trail. If you are planning to hike the mountain path, plan to stop often, keep hydrated, and wear appropriate footwear.
Ganesha Museum
The Ganesha Museum in Chiang Mai is probably the most peculiar museum in Thailand. Ganesha is the Hindu god of success and luck, and the entire museum is a collection of statues to this god. It was started by a Bangkokian named Mr. Pundhorn Teerakanon. Mr. Pundhorn received his first Ganesha statue from his father when he was 19 years old and since embarked on creating a collection. This is one of the last points of interest on the Mae Hong Son Loop.
Please be careful traveling the Mae Hong Son loop. There are many turns. Keep left and avoid the crazy drivers on the road.
Mae Hong Son Loop Google Map
Download our mini-guide with geo-coordinates in .pdf format. If your mobile network suddenly goes down in the mountains, you can use the information in this file to find POIs without the internet. You can also download a Mae Hong Son google map (offline version) of this route to use offline if there is no internet along the way.
Quick Facts
Route: The Mae Hong Son Loop is a circular route that covers about 600 kilometers in Northern Thailand, starting and ending in Chiang Mai.
Duration: Depending on how many stops you want to make along the way, completing the loop can take anywhere from 4 to 7 days.
Highlights: The route is famed for its 1,864 curves offering adrenaline-pumping rides, stunning mountain views, unique local cultures, and key attractions such as Pai, Mae Hong Son town, and the mystical Tham Lot Cave.
Mode of Transportation: The most popular mode of transport is by motorcycle, but car rentals and even guided tour services are available. A motorbike gives you the most freedom to explore at your own pace.
Best Time to Go: The best time to do the loop is during the cool season, from November to February. The weather is usually clear, making for great scenic views, and the temperatures are more comfortable.
Accommodation: There’s a wide range of accommodation options available in each town, from budget guesthouses to luxury resorts, suiting every kind of traveler.
Preparation: Make sure to pack light but adequately, particularly with clothing suitable for a range of weather conditions, including rain gear. Sunscreen, hydration, and snacks are essentials.
Road Conditions: The road conditions are generally good but can be challenging, particularly if you’re not used to riding long distances.
Remember, it’s not just about the destination but also the journey. The Mae Hong Son Loop offers some of the best road trip experiences Thailand has to offer, with its combination of natural beauty, culture, and adventure. Enjoy the ride, take your time, and absorb the unique experiences along the way.
Video Review
Kraig Adams Video Report
Hidden Gem: Mae Hong Son, Ep.1/2
Thailand’s Hidden Gem, Ep.2/2
FAQ
If you prefer to travel by car, in this case we recommend EconomyBookings or RentalCars, where you can find the best prices for car rentals in Chiang Mai among all major car rentals in the city.
“Mae” in Thai translates to “Mother” in English. This term can be used both literally to refer to someone’s biological mother and colloquially, similar to how one might use “Mama” in English. However, in Thailand, it’s also common to use the term “Mae” as a sign of respect towards older women, even if they are not your biological mother. It’s part of many Thai names and could mean “Mother of…” when used in this context. For example, in a name like “Mae Pranom”, “Mae” would be a sign of respect and honor, with “Pranom” being the person’s actual name.
Moreover, the term “Mae” is not just used for addressing people; it is also used in naming places, particularly rivers and towns.
One of the most famous examples is the Mae Klong River, a major river in western Thailand, notable for its large fish market and the Maeklong Railway Market. Another example is Mae Hong Son, a remote, mountainous province in northern Thailand, bordering Myanmar. It’s known for its rugged karst terrain, hot springs, and the indigenous hill tribes that live in the area. The capital city, also called Mae Hong Son, is a popular stop on the “Mae Hong Son Loop”, a scenic drive that starts and ends in Chiang Mai. Mae Sot is another city in western Thailand known as a bustling border town with a diverse population, including many Burmese refugees and migrant workers.
So, in Thailand, the term “Mae” carries a profound significance, be it in addressing people or naming geographical locations. As a traveler, understanding this can enhance your cultural appreciation and interactions with the locals.
The name “Mae Hong Son” translates to “the city of three mists.” It is derived from the natural geographical features of the location which is surrounded by high mountains and is often covered by mist. The “three mists” refer to the morning mist, the mist from burning fields (during farming season), and the evening mist (which is common in winter months).
First, you should avoid riding automatic scooters with a 110cc engine because some roads are very steep, and you won’t be able to go up because such a scooter doesn’t have enough power to do that.
In the second place, you should avoid reckless driving. This applies to all routes and roads in Thailand, but the Mae Hong Son loop is listed as the most dangerous road for foreigners. The problems you will encounter on this route are described here. Surprisingly, foreigners have nothing to do with these problems.
Thirdly, don’t forget that you are traveling in the north of Thailand. This means that these places’ early morning and late evening weather is cold in the mountains. So be sure to bring warm clothes (sweatshirt, jeans, socks) and avoid traveling in a T-shirt and shorts. If you’re going on this trip on a big bike, be sure to wear motorcycle gear.
Fourth, avoid constant exposure to the sun; otherwise, your skin will burn. Yes, that’s really true. It’s cold there in the morning and evening, but in the afternoon, your skin burns in just 15-20 minutes. So, don’t forget to wear long sleeves or use sunscreen.
Well, and most importantly, avoid riding without a helmet. Because it is the lack of a helmet and head damage is the most common cause of death in motorcycle accidents in Thailand.
As we mentioned in our guidebook, the only danger that awaits you when traveling on the Mae Hong Son loop is unpredictable and reckless drivers. However, in other respects, the journey along this route is perfectly safe, and the locals are kind and good-hearted.
We do not recommend this route for night trips. This road is very winding; in some places, there are 180-degree U-turns, and at the same time, there are no road markings, which can lead to a traffic accident. Furthermore, if something happens to you during your night journey, then most likely, no one will find you until the morning because the roads here are empty and deserted at night. In addition, it can be very cold for motorcyclists, even if you wear motorcycle gear.
Yeap, sure. You can travel this route alone. The locals are kind and friendly. Many of them will try to help you in case of any trouble, even though there is a language barrier and perhaps a complete misunderstanding of the language you speak.
It’s a little surprising, but according to the census conducted by the Bureau of Statistics of the Kingdom of Thailand, out of 210,000 people living in the province of Mae Hong Son, approximately 40% of the inhabitants (84,000 people) do not speak Thai. Some people in these places are bilingual, but they still do not speak Thai.
List of languages spoken by locals: Karen (90,000 people), Thai (69,000 people), Thaikueng (36,000 people), local and hill tribe dialects (19,000 people), Hmong / Meow (5,000 people), Chinese (1200 people), Burmese (700 people), English (200 people), Lao (100 people).
In our opinion, the best time to travel Mae Hong Son Loop is from September to February, when nature is green, waterfalls are full of water, and the weather is not too hot. Of course, you can travel at other times of the year, but the best time to travel is from September to February. If you want to catch the Himalayan cherry blossoms, you should travel from mid-December to the end of January.
The coldest time of the year is in the three winter months of December, January, and February when night temperatures can drop as low as 4 degrees Celsius. But, during this time, many locals from all over Thailand, especially from the southern provinces, travel through the Mae Hong Son loop, tired of the unbearable heat and scorching sun, enjoying the cold weather.
Depending on the time of year, the trip can be either comfortable or very hot and exhausting. The hottest times of the year are March and April when temperatures can rise to 40-42 degrees Celsius. Some unskilled riders who have some problems with high blood pressure may even faint during the ride. Also, note that Thailand is near the equator, which means there are very high levels of ultraviolet radiation. Even in cloudy weather, being outdoor for just 20-30 minutes, you will get sunburn if you do not use sunscreen. Therefore, be sure to wear long pants and long-sleeved shirts during your trip if you do not want to get sunburned.
If you don’t care about anything other than the statement “I’ve been here” and a few selfies, you can make this trip in a couple of days, ignoring the detours from the route. But if you like to travel leisurely, explore the surroundings and local culture, enjoy the gastronomic delights and delicacies of the local cuisine, take pictures with amazing views, and watch spectacular sunsets and enchanting mountains sunrises, then plan this route for 4-7 days.
The route, beginning in Chiang Mai and ending in Mae Hong Son, has 1,864 turns. Honestly, no one knows who counted it or how. Since after reaching Mae Hong Son, you travel further and visit other towns and attractions, we will assume that the total number of turns on this route reaches over 4000, but this is inaccurate =) If you can count it – let us know the exact number! =)
When you arrive in Mae Hong Son, you must visit the Chamber of Commerce, which is located near Nong Chong Kham Lake, where you will be given a personal certificate. It costs a nominal fee, but in addition to the issued certificate you will be treated to free delicious freshly brewed coffee.
Local dishes such as fried rice (khao phat), stir-fried rice noodles (phat thai), green papaya salad (som tam), deep-fried crispy egg noodles (khao soi), Hainanese chicken rice (khao man gai), or yellow egg noodles (ba-mee) along the route will cost you about $1-2 per plate.
The word mueang (เมือง, transliteration – meuuang) in Thai can have several meanings, depending on how it is used. For example, mueang Thai would mean Thailand; baan mueang would mean country, state, or nation; mueang luang would mean the capital city, and over a dozen other values. In the case of Mueang Mae Hong Son, it means the district in which the city council is located, i.e., the city district.
- Author: Konstantin Zh
- Updated: February 15, 2026
- 22 Comments
Konstantin Zh
Konstantin is the founder of Cat Motors and a long-time rider based in Chiang Mai. He first explored the Mae Hong Son Loop more than a decade ago and has since revisited it many times, constantly refining his knowledge of the route. His travel guides are grounded in firsthand experience and a deep understanding of the challenges, highlights, and hidden gems waiting for riders along the way.
22 Comments
We are a couple traveling from through Thailand and are interested in traveling the Mae Hong Son Loop next week. I have plenty of experience on an automatic scooter/motorbike back home and have been driving in Thailand thus far on our trip, with my partner on the back. My partner has some scooter experience but we’d like to rent a scooter to travel around Chiang Mai to get her more comfortable before setting off on the Mae Hong Son loop. Fully appreciating your disclosure about not renting to first time riders I wanted to ask if getting 3-4 days of practice in Chiang Mai prior to renting from your would be appropriate for experience, assuming we couldn’t rent through you for that period. Alternatively, I suppose we could do a single scooter with her on back, but I suspect that even the larger scooters wouldn’t have sufficient room for even a small bag for our trip. We appreciate any feedback. Thank you!
Hi Bryan!!! I don’t think 3-4 days in Chiang Mai is enough for a novice traveler who has never ridden a motorcycle before to travel the Mae Hong Son Loop. Because of the large number of turns and the traffic patterns in Thailand, it will be dangerous and tiring. However, if you have a huge bag, you can leave it at our office, taking only the essentials on the trip. It is free of charge.
Hello! I’m planning to ride the Mae Hong Son loop and Chiang Rai. I will probably rent a 110cc motorcycle.
My question: Are there gas stations on the way to Mae Hong Son?
Hi, Asrul! Along these routes you can easily find gas stations. But keep in mind that some sections may pass through forests without settlements, and therefore without refueling stations. Sometimes, you can go 30-40 kilometers and meet no one. Therefore, it is better not to allow the gasoline in the fuel tank to run out, especially after you turn off Route 107 onto Route 1095. Also, you can find gas stations on Google Map and the Sigyc App. On the way from Chian Mai to Mae Hong Son there are 29 big gas stations where you can not only fill up your bike, but also buy food, coffee or tea and a variety of snacks to eat at the store (7-Eleven or other).
There are also many village “gas stations” which are the most common 200-liter barrels of gasoline with a hose sticking out of them, but I think you’ll have trouble finding them because they are located inside the villages and not on the roadway. So, I don’t mention them.
If you want to rent a motorbike with automatic transmission, I advise you to rent a motorcycle that has an engine capacity of at least 125cc. As an automatic scooter with 110cc engine capacity will have difficulties in some places, as these roads are very hilly, and the automatic transmission (variator) has its own peculiarities when riding. If you want to rent a bike with 110cc engine, then it should be a motorbike with a manual gear, or semi-automatic transmission.
Hi, Cat Motors Team! Will it be possible to complete the loop in 3 days, skipping some of the destination? Will I miss much if I complete the loop on car instead of bike?
Hi, Han. The Mae Hong Son loop is equally suitable for motorbike and car alike. Sure, you can ride this route in three days if you do not visit Ban Rak Thai and Mae Surin Waterfall. In that case, your itinerary could be as follows:
Day 1: Chiang Mai to Pai.
Day 2: Pai to Mae Hong Son.
Day 3 (you will need to wake up early because you will have to cover about 300 kilometers in a day): Mae Hong Son – Doi Intanon – Chiang Mai
Alternatively, you can skip the sunset at Mae Hong Son and skip visiting the outskirts of MHS (check clause 3.2), in which case you can spend the night in Khun Yuam or Mae Chaem. Then the third day will be less tiring.
Hi Cat Motors Team,
We are couple traveling to Chiang Mai for the second time end of this June. We are interested travelling Mae Hong Son loop by a motor bike for 5 days. We have rented motor bikes many times in Thailand in various location over the last 8 years. Thinking about renting a comfortable motor bike this time as it will be long distance ride.
My question is, We never visited Thailand in June before and is it hard to drive up in Northern Thailand by bike in June considering its rainy season?
We have some big luggages and is it possible to leave them somewhere safe in your shop?
What sort of motor bike you recommend for us two? ( We like comfort rather than speed), I will be driving and I have experience both manual and automatic gear system.
Looking forward to hear from you soon.
Thank you.
Upul G
Namaste, Upul! Although June is considered the rainy season in Chiang Mai, it rains mostly at night, and it rarely rains heavily during the day. So, I don’t think rainy weather can make you uncomfortable. Nevertheless, driving a two-wheeled vehicle on a wet road requires the necessary skills.
We recommend the Honda Wave 125cc semi-auto or the Honda PCX 150cc with rear drum brake if you want to travel together on the one bike. The fact is that this route has steep descents and climbs in some places, and these models of bikes will be the best choice for two people. But if you want to rent two motorbikes, a Honda Click 125cc or Yamaha GT 125cc would also work for you.
And, of course, you can drop your bag in our back room for a few days. It’s free.
If you prefer big bikes, I would recommend Mr. Mechanic or C&P Big Bikes rentals.
Hi,
Is the road to Ban Rak Thai and Pang Ung properly paved?
I have been to Pai and Mae Hong Son before, but this trip will be targeted at Ban Rak Thai and Pang Ung.
So will only be driving from MHS to Ban Rak Thai, stay 1 night then drive to Pang Ung and stay 1 night before returning to MHS.
I am traveling solo, not sure if there is any difficulty driving a car over there, I have driven to Mae Kampung before.
Thank you and looking forward for your advise 🙂
Yeah, the road has excellent pavement, and you can get there without any problems either by car, motorcycle or bicycle.
Hi, do you know where we can find a paper map by GT Rider about the loop? We are already in Chiang Mai.
Hi, Anna! Do you mean this map?
You can purchase this map at the following stores and rentals:
Mr Mechanic
Rental Shop #1
Rental Shop #2
Rental Shop #3
X-Centre (Mae Rim)
C&P Big Bike Rental
Joe’s Bike Team
On The Road Books
Bookzone
Lost Bookstore
Surawong Book Centre
Oh my good, thank you!! 🤩 With your help, I was able to find it today, thank you so much for the detailed answer 🥰
Hi! Good Day to you. What do u mean direct route and scenic route?
Hi, Helen! A direct route is when you drive only on the main road and see the sights along the way. A scenic route is when you leave the main road for 2-8 hours on adjacent roads to see sights not only along the main road, but also others.
Guys,
I just wanted to thank you for a honest online information for people who are travelling on this route. We are riding it now and it saves so much time while planning.
Thanks!
Thank you for your kind words, Pranas! Have an amazing trip!
Hi, Cat Motors
Thank you for this detailed and informative guide on the Mae Hong Son Loop! I’m planning a 3-5 day family trip and debating whether I should include Mae Sariang in my itinerary. Since I won’t be visiting during the wild sunflower (Bua Tong) bloom, do you think it’s still worth stopping there? Or would it be better to take the route back via Doi Inthanon National Park instead? If you were in my position, which route would you choose?
Additionally, we’re planning to rent a car with a driver for the trip. Do you think hiring a guide would be necessary, or would a knowledgeable driver be enough for navigating and exploring the area?
Looking forward to your advice—thank you in advance! 😊
Hello! Thank you for your feedback, we’re glad that our Mae Hong Son Loop guide was helpful! Regarding Mae Sariang – this town has its own atmosphere, but if you have limited time, then the route through Doi Inthanon might be more interesting. Along the way, you can visit famous waterfalls, royal pagodas, and enjoy magnificent views from Thailand’s highest point. Outside of the Bua Tong flowering season, Mae Sariang doesn’t have many outstanding attractions, so if you’re more interested in nature and beautiful landscapes, I would recommend the route through Doi Inthanon. About the guide – if you have an experienced driver who is familiar with the route, that will likely be sufficient. Many places have information plaques, and the main attractions don’t require accompaniment. However, if you want a deeper immersion into the region’s history and culture, then a guide can make the trip even more interesting.
What an amazing post. I have been there twice but only for Pai and Mae Hong Son. I got realized that there is loop when I rent a bike last year. Planning to do for the next visit. The scenery and road is amazing and excited meantime dangerous as written above. I was a witness of three accidents while driving the course. Not only dose the road itself dangerous but also weather is changing crazily. You can experience burning son and pouring within an hour. Fogs are regular customer. If you plan to do with bike, skills are mandatory and would be better to be ready with every circumstance. Hope you had a great trip and experience. Good luck
we are planning to do the Loop on motorcycles over Songkran this year. We are experience bikers and rode in Phuket during Songkran previously…
other than being splashed by water , is there any other concerns (like business closure, heavier traffic) rriding the MHS loop over Songkran?
Riding the Mae Hong Son Loop during Songkran is definitely doable, but there are a few things to keep in mind besides getting splashed. Traffic will be heavier, especially with locals heading home for the holidays, and there’s a higher risk of drunk drivers, so extra caution is needed. Water throwing happens mostly in towns like Pai and Mae Hong Son, but you might still get hit on the road—sometimes with ice-cold water, which can be a shock. If it hits your visor at speed, it can be blinding, so slowing down near villages is a good idea.
Many small businesses and local repair shops may close, though bigger gas stations and 7-Eleven will stay open. Hotels in tourist spots book out fast, so better to reserve in advance. Expect more police checkpoints checking for drunk driving, helmets, and licenses. April is also hot and dry, so staying hydrated is key. The ride can be amazing, but best to avoid riding at night and stay extra alert in busy areas. If you plan ahead and ride defensively, it should be a great trip!